Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Na, doesn't damage it too much (it will do damage if you just leaving it sitting on the limiter for ages). It happens because the rev limiter works by cutting fuel, which causes the afr's to momentarily lean out. The PFC reading only measures the maximum knock, average knock would be a much more useful reading here.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161250--/#findComment-2994117
Share on other sites

average knock is 10- 15, never goes above that no matter how hard i drive, this is the 1st time its been this high and i didn't sit on the limiter, only hit it and engine light flashed, got me all paranoid. but when i revvied to just before rev limiter a few times after knock was 10 - 15 the whole way to 7000rpm, i set rev limiter at 7200, so its never revved too hard. thing is i've hit rev limiter before and its never got that much knock before, thats why i got worried

Edited by scarface
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161250--/#findComment-2994145
Share on other sites

Even if the car did have a big detionation, its still running fine so i wouldn't be worried about it.

I had knock of 152 once... i think i got a stone in the engine bay hahahah

You only need to worry if knock is going above 40+ like everytime you drive, then you'd need the tune looked at, under 15 is very safe, tuned fairly softly :wave:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161250--/#findComment-2994247
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
    • Continental have consistently beaten the absolute shit out of every other performance tyre in Wet/Damp/Cold conditions and give up a little bit of time (half a second at most) in the dry. Almost like it's engineered for German conditions or something. I'd def give those a try.
×
×
  • Create New...