Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey there,

I recently cracked my front bar driving near roadworks a few days ago. I was wondering if anyone here knows how to repair cracks in frontbars as I need to get this repaired.

I know that I could go to a smash repairs place, however they'd charge more then a backyard job. I'm hoping to get out of it as cheap as I can with a decent repair job.

If anyone can help me out, post here or PM me and leave a quote too that'd be good. I'll attach a photo so you can see the damage.

By the way, I'm living in Logan on the Southside of Brisbane, willing to travel to get it repaired however.

Thanks.

post-29901-1174632404.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161578-cracked-my-front-bar/
Share on other sites

hey buddy in all honsty it is not hard at all.

go down to your local bunnings and get a fiberglass kit. last time i checked was like 50-60.

sand down and around the crack itself. apply fiberglass to the front and rear to reinforce it. and use a roller to flatten it so there is no air bubbles when it dries. really dosnt matter if the area that your fiberglassing isnt level. as you will sand it level.

after it dries get some 800grit sandpaper and start sanding it down. (depending on how ruff it dries will determine which sand paper you will need to start with) after it has been resonably level get some 1500 (very fine) and give it a once over.

trust me, give it ago yourself and you will be amazed at how easy it actually is.

Edited by HKS99
Dude I wouldnt start with 800 you will be there for weeks. start with like 80 and go up to like 320 ready for primer. Primer wont stick to 1500grit

yeah true depending on how thick you reinforce it however. i usually never have had cracks that are very deep.

so 1 to 2 layers.

i have given it a final down in 1500 to remove any last deep/uneven fiberglass and prime filler sticks to it fine mate?

Edited by HKS99

Mate if youre not sure what you are doing for all the time and effort take it to a pro, its worth it in the long run.

Call showdown customs 3353 1260 he is pretty cheap and does a quick job.

Mate if youre not sure what you are doing for all the time and effort take it to a pro, its worth it in the long run.

Call showdown customs 3353 1260 he is pretty cheap and does a quick job.

Thanks, I'll give him a call on Monday. Where abouts are they located?

yeah true depending on how thick you reinforce it however. i usually never have had cracks that are very deep.

so 1 to 2 layers.

i have given it a final down in 1500 to remove any last deep/uneven fiberglass and prime filler sticks to it fine mate?

it will look like its sticks but the first hit it has and it will start flaking off but that will depend on how much you rubbed it with 800 first

Dude I wouldnt start with 800 you will be there for weeks. start with like 80 and go up to like 320 ready for primer. Primer wont stick to 1500grit

thats right i know i do it 4 a job and it wont stick 2 1500 and take 4 ever

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes, I know🙄 but the sequential is not in my budget... don't want to reduce power neither, so looks like I'm stuck in the rabbit hole🤣
    • You’ll be very upset when you bust that too not to mention the gearing totally sucks. Don’t do it.
    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
×
×
  • Create New...