Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well I knew it would happen, and yes it did, sooner than expected (as seems the go with skylines) my clutch is ultra-f**ked.

Just to clarify, clutch slipping through normal driving is clutch failure correct? (IE: revs certainly dont = power anymore and the over present odour.... lol).

I want to know, is the best thing to do buy interstate clutch and then get it fitted here/ do it myself, or is there anywhere in adelaide I can get a clutch for ~550 dollars and then fit it myself/ cheap fitment around.

I'll be looking at a steady 240kw for quite some time and I found a few kits by a seller named "ROGUEPI" off ebay that use exedy parts for modified street/ occasional clutch dumper rb25 for up to 240kw @ 490 odd buckeroos.

Any help would be great, thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161728-clutch-gone-bye-bye/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

go to exedy clutches at hindmarsh. ill try find the address...they will fix you up. Id fit it yourself, its not hard. Ill help you i dont mind, done it heaps and heaps of times. why pay someone to put it in for you and hammer the f*k outta your car. It'll only take one day outta your life.

Bl4ck32 and I had his (rb25t box on the back of his rb30det) box in and out within 2 hours with just axle stands a couple of jacks and a lump of wood.

Its not too difficult providing you have the correct tools, long extension bars etc etc.

BUT.. I think we were just lucky that day the box slid in on its first attempt.

I would recommend Adelaide clutch services at the Corner of South Road and Cormack Rd Wingfield.

They supply Extreme and Exedy clutches and they really know there clutches.

Have a talk to them and barter a little on the price of the clutch as tyou can usually get them down on price a little.

Bl4ck32 and I had his (rb25t box on the back of his rb30det) box in and out within 2 hours with just axle stands a couple of jacks and a lump of wood.

Its not too difficult providing you have the correct tools, long extension bars etc etc.

BUT.. I think we were just lucky that day the box slid in on its first attempt.

LOL when we changed my clutch took ages cause you need to spin the box 180 to get it out and the longest part was tryin to get it back just wouldnt go in then finally popped. not a job a reccomend without the right tools and a few strong guys.

LOL when we changed my clutch took ages cause you need to spin the box 180 to get it out and the longest part was tryin to get it back just wouldnt go in then finally popped. not a job a reccomend without the right tools and a few strong guys.

We had to spin the box close to 90degree's so the starter motor bellhousing lump cleared the floor pan, we had a hydraulic trolley jack under the rear of the box tied up with rope so that it wouldn't slip when spinning the box. Doing that really made it easy to make the box square/level so that it slid in/out easy. To get the box back up we shoved a piece of wood under it levered it up then slid the jack under it then jacked up the box so that it was in the correct position, bit of of a wiggle and slide and pop in it went.

The car had a OS Giken Twin plate, I expected that to make it more difficult as not only do you have to ensure one plate is aligned you have to make damn sure 2 are aligned. :P

Which reminds me.. Damn.. My last rb20t box that smashed third gear, I was meaning to cut the input shaft off it to use as a clutch alignment tool. The plastic ones from the auto store are never as good as the real thing. :P

There used to be a bloke on Marion road right next to Specialty tuning who would do clutch installs for $250-$300.

Which isn't too bad I thought.

LOL when we changed my clutch took ages cause you need to spin the box 180 to get it out and the longest part was tryin to get it back just wouldnt go in then finally popped. not a job a reccomend without the right tools and a few strong guys.

The rb25 box in the r32 is a tight fit, and yes u have to spin it as well to clear the starter hump then rotate it to fit it. Cubes and i did it in the 2 hrs he said. I have a clutch align tool (needed for the Os twin plate i have in) and it slipped the box straight in.

yeah if you get boostworx to do your clutch get him to whip out the pedal box and weld it up and you'll never have a problem with it

as for driving in car parks i havnt found a problem with the xtreme clutch that has a 850kg pressure plate

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...