Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i've verified that i have an oil pressure problem. the stock gauge has never worked so i installed an electrical AND a mechanical and both say i have very low oil pressure. cold start will sit on around 20psi. when warm it idles at 5 psi, and when driving on low or high rpm it will go to about 18-20psi, but never higher than 20psi.

it looks like either its a faulty pump or i've heard stories on the backing plat of the pump becoming loose and thus dropping oil pressure?

how comon is it for rb oil pumps to die? a few ppl have told me they had a problem with low pressure and it turned out to be the screws on the backing plate have come out a bit of have come out completely.

the car drives good, revs freely and makes good power (160rwkw) but on idle u can feel the motor jerking or bumping slightly. ive owned the car for 1 year and i believe its had low oil pressure the whole time. i wont be driving it much/hard till i get this sorted as i dont want to spin a bearing or blow any rings because of this.

any feedback guys?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161849-low-oil-pressure-on-rb20det/
Share on other sites

Generally when the pumps die the break and you get no oil pressure.

IF you are in luck it will be a simple backing plate that has came loose. Thats IF. :S

What did the last oil change look like? Any metal bits in the bottom of the drain pan after you poored the oil out of it?

As cubes said the backing plate could be loose or I have also heard of the relief valve getting stuck open and causing a similar problem. Either way sounds like you will need to pull the pump off and check it out....

oil changes are always smooth. just dark oil.

i have noticed however on first start of they day i can hear a "click".. but only once.

i hope its just the backing plate. what needs to be removed to check if the backing plate has come loose? just the sump or do i need to remove all the timing gear?

You'll need to:

Disconnect gearbox and any wires connecting to the motor (there's only a few)

Remove radiator

lift motor up

remove cam belt

remove cam belt drive gear using a small bearing puller

remove the sump

remove the oil pump and inspect

If all is well with the oil pump... You may as well continue to remove the motor and give it a freshen up or buy a second hand $600-$900 wrecker motor and drop it in.

A basic short motor rebuild is anywhere from 1.2-2k

dam thats not something im ready to do myself. taking it to a workshop then.

does it make any difference im using an oil filter sandwich plate? both electrical and mechanical gauges were hooked up to the sandwich plate as i left the stock sender+switch in.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Food for thought, the stock oil filter thread is a 3/4-16 UNF, which has an ID of about 10 to 12mm (according to ChatGPT lol). Now compare than to an 10AN, which has an ID of about 14mm (Raceworks is 14.2mm, Speed flow is 14.27mm).  
    • Yep, totally get that. However hooking in for Generator back up is only a few hundred bucks for the wiring. You could put a couple of those in (for different circuits explicitly) and run a couple of baby generators. Bonus, you can balance them across different circuits, and now have backups in your backup. I'm looking at buying places that won't even have water etc, and I don't mind the idea of getting off the electric grid either, even with everything you've said. This country already has enough power outages that even the mains grid isn't that reliable anymore. I do agree though on spending a bit more to get better gear, and to add some extra redundancy in to the system too.
    • You can set hard reserves on your battery system, and it can't be discharged past that.  
    • That sounds like an excellent idea. But total self-sufficiency means exactly that. You have no-one else to blame when your system faults out and you have no power for a week or two while it gets fixed. You'd have to go the whole hog and get a diesel genny and all the switchover gear, to get you through such times. And, despite the fact that over 20 years, my system has been pretty reliable**, I have seen so many inverter explosions (or less dramatic deaths), panel and roof JB fires, and so on, over that time, to know that the stuff is the same as any other bulk Chinese manufactured stuff. The failure rate is well above zero - both on the equipment and on behalf of the meth addled installation labour force. And then..... warranty and means of redress against the supplier you bought the gear from. Best I can tell is that only a handful of solar companies are still around within 5 years of starting their advertising pitch. They disappear and phoenix like crazy. So, as per 1st paragraph, I suspect the only way to is go balls deep and spend maybe 2-3 times as much as you might think, so that you have every base covered. Plus, know and understand your gear intimately, so you can diagnose problems, sort them out yourself, etc, etc. Plus, probably have to consider upgrading various parts as the years pass, to maintain compatibility with newer stuff, performance and reliability, etc, etc. Whereas, remaining attached to the grid has an ongoing cost that keeps going up even if you use bugger all power from it. But it does provide the fallback in case of the worst case with your own gear. You either pay up front or as you go, I suspect.
    • Add more solar panels to the array. Call the electricity company and tell them you're moving out... Live off grid electric wise
×
×
  • Create New...