Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

my engine has decided to go into a sort of 'limp mode'...

it idles quite rough (searches between 1000-1500rpm, sounds like a big lumpy cam..) and on a cold start it just feels like a rb20e, and wont boost much, however the guage is showing its hitting the usual 13psi.

the exhaust is also very loud and droney at the moment too.

normal driving, if you gently increase the revs, it goes to about 4000rpm then starts knocking (engine light flashes with PFC), and if you increase the revs too quick, it gets to positive pressure, then feels like it kills off all the power, and the exhaust just gets loud and droney again.

i have a stock AFM in it at the moment, but ive got a Z32 afm which i tried swapping it over to the other day, and that just seemed to make the problem worse, it was stuttering at low revs and i could barely get it back home from 200m up the road.

any idea's?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162036-rb25-boosting-problems/
Share on other sites

what do you see in ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK

can u get a photo? any sensor names in black? any relays going on/off rapidly (black dots flashing)

the engine check light flashes

if afm max warning is enabled and you max the afm

if knock max warning is enabled and you go past 60 knock

if inj max warning is enabled and you go past 98 inj duty

if any sensor fails or goes out of bounds

so it might not be knocking it could be a sensor failing

if a sensor fails it throws the engine check light and its name goes highlighted in the ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK screen

at idle

MONITOR

4 CHANNEL

AIRFLOW

INJDUTY

IGNTMNG

KNOCK

give it a rev a few times

what values do you see ?

oh yes.. forgot to mention... no hand controller for the PFC.

also, the check engine light is permanently on, but flashes when it knocks.

i tried putting the stock ECU in, but the car wont start, just cranks over.

ok if the check engine light is always on a sensor has failed

i would suggest checking the obvious stuff

afm, water temp, tps etc

without a hand controller its difficult to diagnose

do you know someone local with a 25 PFC hand controller?

you shouldnt be loading the engine up (boosting it) with the check engine light on

yeah, im trying to source a hand controller at the moment.

sensor failed would indicate why the stock ECU doesnt work aswell?

afm seems to be fine, water temp is being registered at 1/3rd (as per usual) on the dash so i assume that works?

no the dash guage is different to the water temp sensor

so its possible the guage can still work, but the actual sensor is toast

when my water temp sensor died (the ecu one) my car wouldnt start

can you get access to a consult cable?

if you can plug in the stock ecu, turn car to ACC

run consult, it will tell you what it toast and why the car failed to start (it actually lists it)

update: it stalled at a set of lights, and wont restart now... i guess whatever sensor was dying, is dead!

updated update: that was the fuel pump i swapped over, it runs again, same as usual though, sourcing a PFC controller on the weekend.

ok well i got the pfc controller today.

plugged it in, and checked the sensor sw check at idle, it showed 'bost' (boost) as highlighted, but the rest are fine (engine light stays on all the time)

then i took it for a drive, so other sensors were highlighted, and then i did the airflow/injduty/igntiming/knock check, nothing seemed to be maxing.. airflow rear 1800-2000 or something similar? injduty never reached near 100%, igntiming stayed about 30degrees, but dropped to 20 as it started flashing the engine light, and the knock bar got up to about half way, but thats it.

so now im confused. :)

ok well i got the pfc controller today.

plugged it in, and checked the sensor sw check at idle, it showed 'bost' (boost) as highlighted, but the rest are fine (engine light stays on all the time)

then i took it for a drive, so other sensors were highlighted, and then i did the airflow/injduty/igntiming/knock check, nothing seemed to be maxing.. airflow rear 1800-2000 or something similar? injduty never reached near 100%, igntiming stayed about 30degrees, but dropped to 20 as it started flashing the engine light, and the knock bar got up to about half way, but thats it.

so now im confused. :)

im not sure if it would fix it but it might have the powerfc boost control option on, that would cause the engine light on and may run rough but then again u said u tried the standard ecu and it didnt fix it, true??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
    • Ha ha ha, so they stopped the bearings spinning on the one you want, but then decided the crank hub should slip instead 😛   Stick to RB, at least you can work on it yourself. And now it doesn't smell of vapour   Also I still believe there's a chance your new flap doesn't "pop", as even though the engine might breath hard, it has a direct path with no restriction to the inlet, which when on boost should pull a bit of suction for you. If you do get pressure in the catch can id be very intrigued. Time to put a boost gauge on it, and a session at the track, then solid cover your vent and do another session
×
×
  • Create New...