Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

First of all.... Hello from Scotland :P

The engine is currently out of my R32 GTR getting new OS Giken pistons, new bearings, sump baffle, rod bolts and GT2860-5's

I intented to run the car for a while at low boost on std injectors/pump/AFM's but with tomei FPR. I know this isnt the most ideal plan, but there are more important things going on just now. I'll run them at 0.8 to 1bar but will get the car on a dyno to make sure everything is fine.

So... my real question is...

What do i really need to run these turbo's at say 1.6 bar max?

Will 1 intank Tomei 276lph pump, Nismo AFM's and 700cc injectors .... mapped with PFC be ok?

or.... is it best to just overkill it with twin intanks feeding a dual entry rail, uprated lines and bigger injectors?

What is the max boost, usuable/efficiency, on the GT2860-5's?

ta ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162154-rb26dett-2860-5-fueling-options/
Share on other sites

Will 1 intank Tomei 276lph pump, Nismo AFM's and 700cc injectors .... mapped with PFC be ok?

should be fine, worst case you need a bigger pump, just keep the tomei and use it as a lifter.

dont need dual entry rails etc etc.

overkill :P

First of all.... Hello from Scotland :dry:

The engine is currently out of my R32 GTR getting new OS Giken pistons, new bearings, sump baffle, rod bolts and GT2860-5's

I intented to run the car for a while at low boost on std injectors/pump/AFM's but with tomei FPR. I know this isnt the most ideal plan, but there are more important things going on just now. I'll run them at 0.8 to 1bar but will get the car on a dyno to make sure everything is fine.

So... my real question is...

What do i really need to run these turbo's at say 1.6 bar max?

Will 1 intank Tomei 276lph pump, Nismo AFM's and 700cc injectors .... mapped with PFC be ok?

or.... is it best to just overkill it with twin intanks feeding a dual entry rail, uprated lines and bigger injectors?

What is the max boost, usuable/efficiency, on the GT2860-5's?

ta :(

As you have said - get it on the dyno after you fit the terbs and the FPR to see what the AFRs are at peak load and boost.

Also very helpful if the dyno operator has a fuel flow meter to check what the flow is back to the fuel tank at these peak loads - if your fuel pump is original the performance may be down significantly.

Opinions vary considerably as to when you need to add additional pumps in series, however I'm running a 2.8L with twin GT-RS terbs and have sufficient flow with a single Nismo (drop in replacement) fuel pump with a dedicated power feed.

if it were me I would go with the following:

nismo pump in tank

sard 700cc injectors

sard reg (mainly so you can plug a fuel pressure sensor into the side of it)

direct power feed to the pump is a wise idea too

away you go :dry:

Beer baron do the sard 700cc injectors need collars or no was looking at doing either exactly the same as you are suggesting or going all nismo including the 600cc injectors. I thought u could attach a pressure sender to the nismo reg too, am I wrong there.

Do you think they would be capable of providing fuel for such a setup or possibly to small was only looking at gt-ss myself.

yeh I know this is probly covered elsewhere but it seemed somewhat relevant to this discussion

Beer baron do the sard 700cc injectors need collars or no was looking at doing either exactly the same as you are suggesting or going all nismo including the 600cc injectors. I thought u could attach a pressure sender to the nismo reg too, am I wrong there.

Do you think they would be capable of providing fuel for such a setup or possibly to small was only looking at gt-ss myself.

yeh I know this is probly covered elsewhere but it seemed somewhat relevant to this discussion

there is no gauge port on the side of the nismo reg. if you just want to temporarily attach a gauge for set-up you just need to t in. no big deal. but if you want an elec fuel pressure gauge (i do) get the sard reg as it has a gauge port on the side.

sard 700cc for RB26 injectors do not require collars.

700cc injectors and a nismo pump will happily supply 700 engine horsepower. for the approx 300awkw that the GTSS will give they are fine. some would even say overkill. Plus the 700cc sards are well under $700 for a set of 6 so damn good value.

Yeah thanks B.Baron I thought it was slight overkill but all good an yes Sard injectors seem a definite bargain, huh!

The sard reg might be the go was seriously thinking bout a fuel pressure guage (in car) so maybe

Would a stock reg be maxed out trying to feed 700cc injectors, dont wanna skimp on fuel supply just wondering for couple a hundred for new reg probly not worth the risk anyway

Edited by noone

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As I've said elsewhere, I am using the stock intercooler piping path in the engine bay, and a return flow cooler, and making ~250 rwkW (without any effort put into trying to turn it up past there just yet) and expect to be able to make some more, and frankly, I would be perfectly happy with 260-270rwKW. This is peak road Skyline usability territory. You go past there and, sure, the car will snap necks more when it's on boost, but it will also break shit all the time, cost a (even larger) fortune in tyres, etc etc. Anyway, I also do not like the over-the-fan pipe path, and you don't have to do it.
    • I see, honestly I’m not too fussed about the looks. The only reason to go plenum is to make the piping easier instead of the classic over the rad etc. 
    • Not easy to quantify wrt something like how many fractions of a second slower it would be over 0-100. But given that a 250-300rwkW car is able to do that launch sprint in 5-6 sec (and faster with appropriate tyres, and surface)..... giving up as much as a second would feel like torture. A ~450HP capable turbo is not going to make lots of boost in the 2000-3000 rpm range. So, whilst with some boost on hand it will be faster accelerating in that rev range than your engine currently is NA, it will not feel like a fast car until the boost is solidly in. You know what your car feels like right now when you open it up at 2000rpm. if you've ever been in an actual fast car, you will appreciate that the NARB25 is.... not exciting. Well, add some boost and it will be better. But shorten the intake runners and it might not be better at all. It might come out better, but it could end up feeling the same. For me, it's not the 0-X km/h sprints that matter. It is easy to fry the tyres with anything over 200 rwkW. You can't use all the power available in 1st and 2nd anyway, you have to modulate the throttle. What matters is how the car reacts when you're driving in traffic in 4th or 5th and have maybe 2000 rpm on board, and you want/need to add some speed quickly, and don't have time for the downshift. It won't make boost, it will be all NA (at the speeds we're talking about - remember how fast you're going at 2000 in 4th! and don't plan on breaking the limit by too much.) So giving away NA torque is not what I would consider practical for a street car. And retaining that NA torque builds boost faster which makes the car faster. The flashy plenum is not actually better, unless you're looking at a track car where you can keep it on the boil all the time.  
    • So how much difference does it make you think? Like 1 second in the 0-100?  I was have smaller turbo so hopefully that spools quick GTX2871.  currently it’s NA so you can imagine pretty slow, but I do want fast accusation a little as there’s not many places I’ll be driving where I go over 80 even near me. So 0-60 and 0-80 targets   
    • Short inlet runners cost quite a bit. Dulls off the off-boost torque, and delays boost onset, because arrival of boost is driven by gas flow is a product of the ability to flow air which is torque. This is the reason that the stock manifolds have longer runners. On a 3L, or bigger, you can usually accept the compromise of giving away some torque because the extra capacity gives you a little extra to waste. But on a smaller motor, there's not a lot there to start with. Example, I swapped RB20 out of my R32, 25NeoDET in its place. The "wall of torque" that I experienced afterwards made it all worthwhile. That's because I came from RB20 land where torque is not a thing. But I would not do anything, anything at all, to reduce the low/mid torque I have now, because I remember what it is like to not have it!
×
×
  • Create New...