Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm looking ahead into the future thinking about what I need to be getting first etc.

At the end of the day I'm planning on having the following mods on my car:

Full 3" exhaust

FMIC

Pod

Standard turbo

No boost controller (just whatever comes from having the exhaust)

Will I be safe going for the Apexi SAFC NEO?

Since they're pretty basic mods will adjusting the air:fuel ratios be enough to give me a safe tune with no knocking etc?

At what level of mods/boost/power does the timing go retarded? (I don't know much about this which is why I'm asking because I know the SAFC can't adjust timing at all)

Edited by so_tred

a safc IS a piggy back as far as i know,

maybe you're confusing piggy back with standalone?

i'm not extremely well informed on skylines yet but my guess is that you would be fine with a neo with those mods... especially if you're not going to touch the boost at all....

if you are not going to increase the boost then I don't see why you would need the larger intercooler when the standard side mount can more than handle the tiny increase in boost from the exhaust mod. Piggy back like the SAFC or SAFC2 should be enough to clean up the curve. Yes you will get people telling you to get a powerFC and that it is better yadi yadi ya...........but since you are only going to do the exhaust mods then it would just be overkill to have a powerfc.

But if you are going to doing more mods later on then yes.....go with the powerfc

Sorry, cleared it up a little. I meant piggyback as in the GReddy Emanage or something similar.

PowerFC is out for me anyway as it's an auto.

The FMIC is there because in the more distant future I probably will chase more power & get a bigger turbo etc..and let's face it, I like the look of them :P So I'm just doing it now instead of later.

Edited by so_tred

what he said ^^^^^

u should only see about 10psi max, in the coldest weather, with free flowing exhaust. so R&R wont be a prob.

cleaning up your AFR's will get you more power, and maybe better economy.

I use a unichip, they're cheap to pick up these days, they control afr's and timing. mine also has a boost controller module that uses the stock solenoid to control boost. very stealthy :P But you need to find soemone who tunes unichip. most tuners wont / dont tune them. Ive got a great place in sydney (C&V Performance), but that doesnt help you.

on the other hand, safc will do the basic afr's for you. anyone can tune those.

yeah everyone hates them. but then u find soemone thats been tuning them for years, and they get the best out of them.

but it seems irrelevant to this thread now since the thread starter has clarified a few things.

edit: but you cant tell me u'd go with an safc, over a unichip. that was my point, after reading the original topic question.

Edited by Munkyb0y

Be careful, SK has mentioned that some R34 GTTs hit R&R at 9psi.

After an exhaust, you should be fine, will probably get a tiny flat spot around 5000, but only a very tiny one. I did.

Also a FMIC will bring the boost a little higher as well, so by then you'd prob get R&R and a bigger flat spot. This is partly why I havent put on a FMIC.

Check around this other R34 GTT owners to see what their experiences have been. Let us know how you go. I've subscribed to this seeing as the findings in this also affect my mod plans.

I would say a SAFC would be fine enough for what we want, especially with the stockish level of boost.

Note: I dont think the car will be knocking much with an exhaust and FMIC, the standard ECU should provide protection against that by hitting R&R. I think what you want to do is get the most from the exhaust and FMIC without hitting R&R, and thats where the computer comes in. Chances are a badly tuned computer will be more likely to knock than one with the standard ECU only. (i might be wrong hahah)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
    • -10 is plenty for running to an oil cooler. When you look at oil feeds, like power steering feeds, they're much smaller, and then just a larger hose size to move volume in less pressure. No need for -12. Even on the race cars, like Duncans, and endurance cars, most of them are all running -10 and everything works perfectly fine, temps are under control, and there's no restrictions.
    • Update: O2 sensor in my downpipe turned out to be faulty when I plugged in to the Haltech software. Was getting a "open circuit" warning. Tons of carbon buildup on it, probably from when I was running rich for a while before getting it corrected. Replaced with new unit and test drove again. The shuffle still happens, albeit far less now. I am not able to replicate it as reliably and it no longer happens at the same RPM levels as before. The only time I was able to hear it was in 5th going uphill and another time in 5th where there was no noticeable incline but applying more throttle first sped it up and then cleared it. Then once in 4th when I slightly lifted the throttle going over a bump but cleared right after. My understanding is that with the O2 sensor out, the ECU relies entirely on the MAP tune and isn't able to make its small adjustments based on the sensors reading. All in all, a big improvement, though not the silver bullet. Will try validating the actuators are set up correctly, and potentially setting up shop time to tune the boost controller on closed loop rather than the open loop it is set to now. Think if it's set up on closed loop to take the O2 reading, that should deal with these last bits. Will try to update again as I go. 
    • More so GReddy oil relocation kits, sandwich plates, etc. all use 10AN fittings. And same, I've only used 10AN and my car sees track work (circuit, doing laps, not 10 sec squirt business).
×
×
  • Create New...