Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im at the point where i need an aftermarket ecu...

I originally wanted a power fc, now im not being a tight ass, but cummon, who the f**k is gonna pay more then $1300 for a 2nd hand power fc when 6 months ago (when the new ones were floating around everywhere) the 2nd hand ones went for $700 with hand controller...

But if i have to, i guess i have to but atm im exploring other PLUG IN options like microtech..

Im terms of perfection of tune, power extractable and fuel consumption which ecu do u recommend??

Ps i searched, but like i said, since all the prices have been jacked up, things just aint the same.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162178-the-time-has-come-ecu/
Share on other sites

i like microtech as well but ill tell u what 90% of the members of this forum are gonna tell u... It all depends on your tuner... ive also heard from friends the greddy emanage ultimate is also good but its a piggy back ecu not stand alone.

Had a microtech on pervious car, Was nice not having to worry about AFM's and stuff..

Pro's - No AFM, Easy Install even if u have to wire it yourself, nice password locking fature " with hand controller"

Con's - Cops can detect a microtech as soon as they look under the bonnet and see you got no AFM.. so best keep it there, Hard to fine tune, not so cool on the old fuel tank

Emange, sounds pretty good. does alot for what they cost.

Pro's still run your factory ecu, so im assuming you can hot swap it pretty quick (pull out the emange - for emmissons tests)

Con's not really a FULL aftermarket ecu a few things missings on tuning side of things.

However seems like the enxt logical step.

Standard ECU remap (for RB20)

pretty decent value

can tune them just as much as the power fc so i ahve been told by chris at mercury

Pro's keep the factory ecu. cops would Never know your running diffrent from factory emmisso\in without probing it. Cheper,

Con's not to many people can do the remap, only those with Dr Drift software i believe

On that note ( he ahs been flown around aus to tune people cars.

Power FC.. FTW

Honestly.. Just pay the extra

Pro's Full aftermarket ECU Fully Progrmable,

Cons, $$$$ + RARE!!!

MY 2 cents.. grit your teeth like i did and pay the 1300

for what its worth i just paid $1500 for a 2nd hand power fc and hand controller for my RB20DET

Cheers Adz

Ohh and i Totaly agree.. your ECU is only as good as your Tuner..

Edited by R32-PSH77
Im from melbourne i have spoken to dr drift about it n he quoted around 1200 for a rb20 ecu plus remap + tune... but thats no vct

so i guess a power fc is the way to go, just need some1 to find one one cheap!

mate trust me no vct on a rb25 is NOT a great thing. do a back to back run with it on and off and the differrence is seat of the pants detectable...... the extra cost of finding that extra midrange is better spent buying a ECU that can accomodate it from the start.

1200 will buy you something with VCT control easily.

Edited by URAS

depends on tuner but talk to ur tuner OR TUNERS on how much they can get out of the emanage ultimate

thats ur best bet cause ur going budget.. you mite end up with 200 rwk or over.

ring up croydon, or maytech tuners, even tunehouse. ( tunehouse will have A GO at 500 bucks )

few ppl on here wanna try the emanage . when you got enuff cash and want MORE power opt for something more anythings better then shit standard ecu

There are a number of threads on Alternative ECU's to the PowerFC.

One thread is 5-6 pages long with some great information.

Please have a search, people arent going to repost information everytime a topic comes up :dry:

depends on tuner but talk to ur tuner OR TUNERS on how much they can get out of the emanage ultimate

thats ur best bet cause ur going budget.. you mite end up with 200 rwk or over.

ring up croydon, or maytech tuners, even tunehouse. ( tunehouse will have A GO at 500 bucks )

few ppl on here wanna try the emanage . when you got enuff cash and want MORE power opt for something more anythings better then shit standard ecu

car made 240, running really rich (spark plugs go black after 1 full tank of petrol).. maybe a problem with o2 sensor n stuff, didnt bother hooking up the diagnostics coz gonna get a pfc anyway.. why waste money n waste it again?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...