Jump to content
SAU Community

Trying To Find A New Bodykit

zorb_rules

By zorb_rules,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

zorb_rules Experienced

zorb_rules

Posted
Posted

Hey guys trying to find a bodykit for my r33 its a series 1.. Lookin for a decent new one nothing too out there but somethign nice...

Anyone have any suggestions???

Also what materials are best and stuff liek that??

Only reason Im looking for it is that ive been quoted to respray..mine and its been cheaper to buy a new kit than rub thew old one back prep it fill it and repaint it...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162927-trying-to-find-a-new-bodykit/
Share on other sites
Sarumatix Veteran

Sarumatix

Posted
Posted
http://www.uras.com.au/ might interest you. There are a few suppliers around of various levels of quality. The one linked is quite good and fitment seems to be very good (at least for their 32 and S13 kits). If you want different styles you need to search for pictures of various kits, choose the ones you like, find out what brand they are, then try and get either a genuine (really expensive in general) fiberglass or copy (nightmare to fit in general) fiberglass item. I've personally got a uras front and Origin side and rear. The only other option is to find a kit which is found on a stock car, such as 400R for R33s and fit that kit. For the GTR kits however you need to realise that the panels are different and probably will making fitting a big headache. I don't really know what stock kits came with R33s, for R32s I know there is a "type-m" kit for both 2-door and 4-doors. These are made of plastic (very strong, light and flexible) and fitment is generally perfect (assuming you are trying to fit to the same chassis as the original came from), of course then you will still end up paying the same or more likely more for painting :pirate:. Finally if you want a good quote I'd suggest visiting DT panels in Springvale (12 lightwood drive).
zorb_rules Experienced

zorb_rules

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Scottie not a tight arse on this lol got 2k saved hopign that should be a decent amount for a kit..anyone ehard anythign about www.topstage.com.au my mate just got his r33 kit there they fit it and everything he just has to find somewhere to prep and paint it..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Looking for someone with a R34 front bar

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That looks good, but I think you're going to need much beefier side skirts now.
    • GTSBoy
      Most women will agree that parking is the most taxing part of driving

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      They are daft and there's a reason it never caught on. Steering feel? We don't need no stinking steering feel!
    • GTSBoy
      new 1.5 LSD issues/concerns

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I gotta pull you up on this. It's driving me crazy. A shutter is something that closes, like over a window or in a cmera. The word you want is shudder. That LSD is clearly f**ked. Take it to a diff shop and get it disassembled and examined by an expert. YOu might have plates welded together or something equally crazy.
    • GTSBoy
      M35 Brake caliper replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Define "starting to fail". Wy not just rebuild them?
    • GTSBoy
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Check the Nistune doco. There are a few assumptions being made here that might not be valid. I will list the things that occur to me: Base map. Base map for what? Base map for Z32? Then the cranking pulse width is probably wrong for an RB25. The extra 500cc of capacity might well be enough to prevent it from catching. Base map for RB25? I don't think you can load one of those into a Z32. You have to just make the settings correct for an RB25 in the Z32 base map. That is either K or the TIM to get the pulsewidth right. Loom. You bought a loom for an RB. And you plugged it into a Z32 ECU. Did you make sure that any iwre differences were swapped. From memory, there's at least a couple. And as per the others, I would suggest making sure that the fuel pressure is correct while cranking and that the injectors are actually flowing as expected. They really must come out and go on the bench, unless you do find that you have messed up as per above points. I would also suggest watching in Nistune to make sure that everything is reading correctly. That the correct binary flags are raised at the right time (like the crank signal), that there's no stupid values in K or TIM. That you have not got mismatched firmware for the ECU and/or a wrong image loaded.
×
×
  • Create New...