Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was browsing the internet for some information on car batteries and stumbled across this.

http://www.coplock.com.au/

has anyone here used of it and/or used one. looks quite nifty and i wouldnt mind one as an additional form of security.

opinions?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163156-coplock-anti-theft-device/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

It looks to be a good idea, But i dont think it would be suitable for a manual?? due to having to have your foot on the break to start a auto?

As it says, for a manual you'd put it over the clutch...

The unique steel boot fits over and surrounds the brake or clutch pedal and also secures the pedal arm. A self-locking shaft is engaged to the floor of the vehicle securing the boot and stopping the pedal from being depressed. As a result the effective use of the brakes and or the transmission is stopped. In addition some vehicles cannot be started unless the brake or clutch pedal is depressed.
...but I wonder how much of a pain in the arse it is to fit and remove.

Oh and that narrator on the video is shit-house! :huh:

buahhaa, look at the attempts to defeat the coplock, what the hell was he doing with a shifter on a screwdriver...
Some locks can be forced that way. Edited by Oosh

My old man had one years ago. It was slightly different though with 2 U shape hooks on either end.

In the auto he used it as shown on the brake, and also it could be put from the brake pedal to the auto lever to stop it being shifted from Park.

edit/ wheres the usual can of soda stream to freeze it then smash it off? and who breaks into a car with the drivers seat removed...?

Edited by Bl4cK32

lol guys. there are obviously alot of ways to stop a car from moving. but i was just thinking maybe a visual deterrrant such a this would not only help but also serve a purpose, that is, not being able to put the clutch in.

for the paycheck u use to buy the coplock, buy a viper or mongoose instead and put that into the car... Of course I'm talking about the actual animals.

EDIT: For added protection put both into the car, and you will find that the stronger one will defeat the other and thus become the best protection for your car.

Edited by Pauly33GTS-t

lol thats not very practical... could you imagine Vange himself, removing his steering wheel on hindley street, then going to meet some chicks with his steering wheel in his pocket? I dont think hed enjoy that one.

in the video they didnt show the guy hacksawing the end of the brake pedal off to remove the clamp, or grabbing onto it and swinging on it. to me it has way to much leverage to grab the top and pull it side ways.

looks like a stupid idea.

sit in your car with a shotgun if your to concerned.....

20 seconds i could get past that...

apply winch cable / 4wd / reverse / fixed

cheers

Darren

Alarms are stupid IMO, a thief that knows what hes doing can get around any alarm before you know it. But IF you must have an alarm make sure you trust 1000% the installer, cause 9 out of 10 times they are in it, they know what alarm you got, how to disable it, where do you live, what do you do, Everything!!! Got damn you cant trust anyone these days ay!

thats why the smoke alarms are better. Once someone brakes into your car it pumps out smoke...how many people will take notice of a car with smoke pouring out :)

This is quite true....

You may as well leave your car open so they don't do damage....... If they take off with your car then insurance is your friend, BUT if they just break in and steal stuff then it generally isn't worth claiming anyways, and ends up biend a headf#%k to fix and a hassle!

how many people will take notice of a car with smoke pouring out :)

Plenty might notice it but how many people are actually going to do anything about it?

Would you approach a thief with his mothers undies on his head and a screwdriver in hand just to prevent some soccer mums bmw 4wd being stolen?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...