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hi guys,

i after some info on doing this the correct way!! I have a rb30et out of a r31 in my vl at the moment.

i have just put the radiator back in and added the coolant. i have forgotten that i have to bleed the coolant system thou.

Just want to know hoe i do this??? i have heard of the bleed bolts being on the plenum at next to the coolant temp sensor or whatever. i do have a custom plenum so i dont know where it is or the other one at that.

All i did was fill the radiator up, than ran it for a while until the thermosate opened and filled it again. Air pockets where coming from the radiator but will this crack my head..

this is a pic of my engine... thanks for your help!!!

post-34640-1175758025.jpg

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hey mate, the only way the bleeder will work is if it is at the highest point of your coolant system. seeing as though the bleeder was removed your best bet now would be do wait till your thermostat opened up, run your heater on the hottest setting at full power (if its still connected - it doesnt look like it is), then just keep squeezing the top radiator hose to suck out any air that may be in the system and just re-fill as it needs it. get someone to keep an eye on the temp gauge while you do this. if it doesnt pass the normal temp on the gauge after a while then it will be bled.

take it for a drive then check your levels (carefully - dont do it when its hot) and keep your eye on the temp gauge.

Yeh just let it idle with the rad cap off until both rad hoses become hot (with heater on full hot). That means the thermostat has opened up. You will normally have extra room to put a little more water in after this happens as the air has escaped from the cooling system. The best idea is to put a short piece of rubber hose in the radiator fill hole to raise the water level of the radiator above the rest of the system. This helps to get all the air out.

The bleeder screw fitted to some cylinder heads/inlet mannifolds are to help bleed air from that part of the system. Some are like eye bolts in that you can just open them up a bit without taking them completely out to release air and others must be completely removed. With the engine running open the bleed screw up and leave it open till the coolant flows from it with no bubbles. Then screw it back in and make sure there are no more bubble coming from the radiator. Then replace the cap and take it for a drive keeping an eye on the temp guage.

Remember when the system has no water in it (IE: boil over) the guage will not work correctly. So most likely will read normal or lower. Dont get tricked by that.

Hope that helps,

Deren

OMG after installing a new turbo and some custom piping n stuff on my car at a proformace shop, i can not belive this they did not bleed it from the bolt, only left the cap off for a good 20 mints im not sure y i didnt remmber to tell them that they need to take that bolt off as they are a pro shop except they are not radiator or coolent ppl... anyhow took the car out ant BLEW my head gaskits in 20 mints GRRR unbeleaveable. anyways guys can somene give me a list of things to watch out for n concider when replacing the head gaskit !! what to get where from for a good price and what other things to do while im at it to make this worth while !!... sorry its off topicish a lil. but its a lesson well learnt for me. DO NOT JUST BLEED THE SYSTEM FROM THE DARATOR CAP it will take out ur head gaskit

Edited by drmafia

ok well because i dont have a bleeder bolt i have been told i could use the temp sensor as 1 instead as its next to where the bleeder bolt is ment to be but im not sure.

goes like this..

fill the radiator with the sensor out, while the car is cold and not running and once the coolant runs out smoothly put it back in. once back on start the car and wait for the thermostate to open, squeeze the top rad hose and fill it back up with say a funnel / coke bottle and wait for remaining air pockets to come out (as it will be the highest point of the cooling system) and fill the overflow bottle.

I dont have a heater or air con connected either

if not what should i do

OMG after installing a new turbo and some custom piping n stuff on my car at a proformace shop, i can not belive this they did not bleed it from the bolt, only left the cap off for a good 20 mints im not sure y i didnt remmber to tell them that they need to take that bolt off as they are a pro shop except they are not radiator or coolent ppl... anyhow took the car out ant BLEW my head gaskits in 20 mints GRRR unbeleaveable. anyways guys can somene give me a list of things to watch out for n concider when replacing the head gaskit !! what to get where from for a good price and what other things to do while im at it to make this worth while !!... sorry its off topicish a lil. but its a lesson well learnt for me. DO NOT JUST BLEED THE SYSTEM FROM THE DARATOR CAP it will take out ur head gaskit

Dr MAfia - care to explain more? so that it can be avoided? did they instruct you that the level won't be fully topped up and not to drive hard till you get home, let it cool down, then fill it up again (over the next few days)?

Or did you fang it straight away thinking your radiator would be bette rwith new coolant?

ok well because i dont have a bleeder bolt i have been told i could use the temp sensor as 1 instead as its next to where the bleeder bolt is ment to be but im not sure.

goes like this..

fill the radiator with the sensor out, while the car is cold and not running and once the coolant runs out smoothly put it back in. once back on start the car and wait for the thermostate to open, squeeze the top rad hose and fill it back up with say a funnel / coke bottle and wait for remaining air pockets to come out (as it will be the highest point of the cooling system) and fill the overflow bottle.

I dont have a heater or air con connected either

if not what should i do

using the temp sensor is fine only as long as its the highest point of your cooling system.

i liked the suggestion of driving up a steep driveway (or even jacking the front of the car up till the radiator cap becomes the highest point).

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