Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can the r200 2way nismo dif that has been pulled from a gtr33 fit into a 33 gtst with no modification? If it needs modding what mods need to be looked into for this to work. Currently to replace the old s1 r33 diff single spinah to a 2 way just looking into it. As i can get a 2nd hand 2way nismo gtr diff for $400 Landed?

you cant dop it.

the 32 one has differant casing. the front mounting bolts arnt bushed. and the rear cover is diferant but can be swapped. also the yoke on the pinion is differant. but it can be swapped. your best getting the centre swapped over. the 33 one uses 31 spline stub axles the 32gtst uses 29 spline. also diferant bolt pattern.

your goint to need: gtr rear hubs and shafts. and the whole subframe to do it properly.

With a nismo, i'd expect you could just grab the 5 bolt output shafts to suit from nissan and chuck the center in your existing housing. All the nismo centers are the same, only difference in the part numbers are for the type of output shafts that come with it (obviously, 1.5/2 way and pro etc are different but you get the idea). I've got the part numbers for the 5 bolts shafts floating around somewhere for a regular old 1.5 way/2 way. Dunno whether they are the same for a pro with adjustable preload.

If it was a kaaz or cusco center (or another one that uses the stock output shafts) then i'd agree with dave.

$400 landed for a s/h nismo 2way is fairly reasonable, but weigh up if its worth the cost of axles being up close to $200 each + hubs ~$100 + setting up the center in your housing ~$350.

So all up thats just over ~1k.

For a touch more you can have a new mech center landed from nengun + $350 setup BUT you don't have the meaty axles should you decide to strap a set of slicks on to it and crack in to the 10's with 450rwhp+. :P

Then you have to consider.... this s/h 2way.. does it require a rebuild or nearing a rebuild?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...