Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

**EDIT**

Well, I bought the car. Checked out well, and with the thumbs up the $$ changed hands on Saturday avo.

Details are as follows:

Car

Oct 94 GTSt

84,000 kms

White

5speed

Mechanical

Tein Coilovers

Nismo Front Strut Brace (with brake booster brace)

Slotted Rotors

Unkown brand BOV

HKS Mushroom Pod

3.5" Cat Back Blitz exhaust

Exterior

17x8, 17x9 Circlar Wheels (By Enkei)

? Front Bar (combo of GTR and 400R)

S2 Rear Spoiler

Type M Side Skirts

Ganador Mirrors

Interior

Genuine Momo Race wheel

Veilside Gear Knob

HKS Turbo Timer

Alpine HU with Kenwood speakers

Hi all,

as the heading suggests, I am looking for a place to have a car inspected prior to purchase. RAA inspections just don't cut it, so I went to Boostworx as I have read many good things about them. Boostworx will do a full safety inspection of the vehicle as well as compression test, but the problem is they can't inspect the vehicle for another 2 weeks!!

So does any have any other recommendations for having it inspected in the adelaide area? The car is located in the Eastern hills, so anywhere eastern suburbs or inner south would be good.

post-13651-1176642456.jpg

post-13651-1176642532.jpg

post-13651-1176642563.jpg

Edited by Hotwire
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/163879-my-new-car-finally/
Share on other sites

Yeah, sorry I had a quick look in there, but are they any good in relation to inspection? I know people have had work done there, just after some more opinions. cheers

Were you the guy looking for a 33 and you came into Boostworx one late arvo after work, about a week or so ago? think you were driving a pulsar???

I'd personally get Hi Tech or GW to do a check, either way they will be able to do the same check anyways! They will check it all out but obviously you will have the final say on the purchase as they cant give you a "yeh mate buy it....... it won't blow up!!"

GL with the search, and just remember to put some time into it and not buy the first one you like! besides there is alot of 33's out there for sale ATM!

Hey Delux,

Yeah that was me. I was in my wifes pulsar as she was driving my SP23 that day. I realise there are a lot of cars for sale out there, and I have been looking at the market for some time. After inspecting quite a few cars on the weekend, I have come accross a car which stood well above the others for condition of both body and interior, and that is why Im keen to move on it now. Thanks for the tips, will see how I go.

Cheers

Lee

Graham West have been relatively good to me in the past. I now use someone private but i have had a fair bit of work done there (and with the lemon i bought i mean a fair bit) they know what they're talking about only problem is that they do cost a bit p/h which builds up over a day.

if you're desperate, ask one or two of our SAU members to help you inspect

i'm sure they'd be delighted to help out a fellow member...maybe with a beer or two afterwards

imo

Im sure someone here would be comfortable to say yer its a nice car with no hard feelings if something happens shorlty after :)

Very nice and clean has an aggressive look to it but I have to recommend Car Toys to clean up the headlights, get rid of that 33 foggy headlight thing

Congrats on the purchase and Hi Tech dyno is a quality workshop John really knows skylines and how to treat them good luck with it

Edited by Tuffr32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...