Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest Simon-MrRx7

My next car is going to be set up with full drift suspension.. as my rx7 drifted well but was always too soft... so anyway how does this all sound?

Fully adjustable coil overs with Koni inserts 8.0 Kgcm spring rate

Front and rear upgraded bars

New bushes throughout

Adjustable Castor rods

Adjustable Camber tops

Strut brace in engine bay

any one got any idea's and opinions on their on personal drift set ups... like camber and castor.. which is more important for drift?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1642-drift-suspension/
Share on other sites

Hey Simon,you should know most of that stuff anyway.

Hmmm,have you seen the light and buying a NISSAN? :burnout: :lol:

Ive setup my car for the hills but aint much different for drift except the arse end.I went to a coilover setup with all the bushes and stab. bars and damn its changed my cars handling.I was chasing Danny(u know who) through (u know where) going at a pace i just couldnt get my arse out as wide and for as long cause of new 255 rears hooking up at that speed (standard motor aswell) but the control was rock solid.Chain of Ponds,Gorge,Eagle on the Hill are a dream to drive with good suspension setup.

You cant go wrong with all that susp. gear.

Matt

p.s.I`m a peeper most of the time:p :lol:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1642-drift-suspension/#findComment-32149
Share on other sites

Guest Simon-MrRx7

hahaha u peeping tom :( how ya doing matt?

yes im buying a nissan... not quite a latemodel one either :) tis a bit shush shush for now, going to be powered by either an Rb20det or an Rb25det depends on how rich im feeling at the time..

the above suspension is setting me back 3K for everything... i want it to sit flat and be fully controlable when drifting :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1642-drift-suspension/#findComment-32218
Share on other sites

Guest Simon-MrRx7

Matt: sweet.. thats the kind of ride i want.. u NEED to feel every bump etc on the road to get the best feedback.

heh.. thought about the rota/nissan combo but im after budget [performance meaning getting a a car that a motor will drop striaght in no worries.

yeah i'll miss the rotor... but hey.. i can always get another one... and the way i look at it RB series motors are kinda like rotors anyway... bugger all down low... pulls like a mofo over 4K rpm and revs like a rotor :D heh :D :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1642-drift-suspension/#findComment-33641
Share on other sites

It corners great at the right speed but drop the clutch or past that magic apex speed and its a drifting time.I'll be at the gold coast the week of autosalon so if your keen I'd just about garantee they will still be on the car and I'll be at the broadwater carpark or I'll give you my no.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1642-drift-suspension/#findComment-34300
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...