Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I bought these for my GTR but I have massively overspent of late so need some cash. These are a work of art. Far nicer than any of the other japanese dumps. both the HKS and trust dumps I have seen were not finished nearly as well as these, both had some rough edges inside etc. I have seen people make gains when switching from HKS dumps to these tomei ones. The tomei ones are not split, but have one massive opening which gives maximum flow which is exactly what you want for both power AND response. Plus without a divider they will fit straight onto any of the popular Garret or HKS or N1 turbos as some of these have a splitter built into the ex housing (meaning with trust or HKS dumps you have to mod the dump or the turbo).

The kit comes with 2 dumps, new dump to front pipe studs and nuts, and O2 sensor adapters so you can use in 32, 33 or 34 GTR.

They are brand new in sydney and I'm after a lowly $620 + postage or pickup in sydney northside. these truly have to be seen to be appreciated. they are so nice.

pics coming.

also worth pointing out, the outlet on HKS dumps is 60mm. these are a manly 70mm. very good if you have 70mm front pipes :(

lol, it's not a fridge but an ancient top loader washing machine and never for sale. it's been working since the dawn of time and still going strong.

ooops, just realised you may mean the fridge in the reflection! it's stacked with beer so can't sell that one either! lol

I should mention the photos are crap because I took them whilst i was a bit pished after coming home from a night out last night.

yeah them old washing machines can't be beat. mine is at least 30 years old.

now let's drag this topic back to dump pipes. chat not allowed in FS and I'll have to give myself a warning in a minute. and yes I'm serious.

Risking, they are stainless, but very high grade. with ceramic coating on the flanges and amazing finish inside the pipes.

franky: the stock front pipes are around 55mm ID so it would be wise to upgrade to at least some dual 60mm into 70 or 80mm single pipe. dual 70mm to a single 80 or 90mm would be ideal though. but they will still work with stock front pipes and most brands of aftermarket front pipes though.

anyway, it doesn't matter now as they are sold. :D (well pretty sure they are)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...