Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've got 2 R33s, one's a '94 GTS-T and the other's a '95 Type M- the syncro seems a bit slow on both of them, and is possible to beat on both up and downshifts, no crunching but felt resistance. Are they all like this or is this a sign of age/wear? One's 72,000 the others 92,000 kms so they're not ancient.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164762-slow-syncro/
Share on other sites

you are right in saying that they feel slow. My car has very low ks on it, and it's like this. same as my friends who has a brand new just jap box in it ($3200). It's just the way they are.

Yeah. 4th and 5th Synchro's are pathetic. 1st, 2nd & 3rd are okay, I've heard people get good results from a gutful of Redline lightweight shockproof. I've been quoted V.good prices to do a bearings & Synchros rebuld by 2 different places, food for thought.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164762-slow-syncro/#findComment-3055700
Share on other sites

Yeah. 4th and 5th Synchro's are pathetic. 1st, 2nd & 3rd are okay, I've heard people get good results from a gutful of Redline lightweight shockproof. I've been quoted V.good prices to do a bearings & Synchros rebuld by 2 different places, food for thought.

I actually find 1-4 the same. 5th is the one that i find really slow - I put the gear stick there and wait for it to pop in. Feels like it's taking forever.

Having said that though, 1-4 feel pretty gay in the sense that they're a bit notchy. I know that that's the way that the box is, because my friend's r33 has a brand new box, and it's like this too (running vmx80 mineral oil - good stuff - i've used the synthetics except redline - wont' touch that crap, and imo vmx is the best for your box).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164762-slow-syncro/#findComment-3059368
Share on other sites

I actually find 1-4 the same. 5th is the one that i find really slow - I put the gear stick there and wait for it to pop in. Feels like it's taking forever.

Having said that though, 1-4 feel pretty gay in the sense that they're a bit notchy. I know that that's the way that the box is, because my friend's r33 has a brand new box, and it's like this too (running vmx80 mineral oil - good stuff - i've used the synthetics except redline - wont' touch that crap, and imo vmx is the best for your box).

Out of the 33s I've driven, none have really performed how you said.

Mine slips straight into 5th not a drama, the only gear that is notchy occasionaly is second gear, and it has the syncros dieing on it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164762-slow-syncro/#findComment-3065782
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
Yeah. 4th and 5th Synchro's are pathetic. 1st, 2nd & 3rd are okay, I've heard people get good results from a gutful of Redline lightweight shockproof. I've been quoted V.good prices to do a bearings & Synchros rebuld by 2 different places, food for thought.

What sort of cost is involved in replacing synchros? I need to re-do mine.

My diff is also leaking, any idea on $$?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164762-slow-syncro/#findComment-3170491
Share on other sites

Synchro assemblies are about $130-150 each.

I've just had my box out and found the synchros were not worn out. The cone/ring assemblies were glazed and required bead blasting to de-glaze.

Reassembled and using VMX80 it is like a new box. Very precise and just notchy enough to let you know exactly where things are. Very large single synchro on 1st, then doubles on 2, 3. If there is any apparent weak link, it will be the quality of change from 4th-5th, going on the synchro design there.

FWIW, the internals look like they were designed to take lots more grunt than a stock RB25. There is even a factory-included internal trap door to prevent oil surging to the rear of the box under hard acceleration. Keeps the main gearset well lubricated. :whistling:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164762-slow-syncro/#findComment-3183962
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...