Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok guys this is my second post for SAU but for those of you that frequent NS.com you may know me as 1ATSXDRFT

anyhow, following on from gumnuts thread about the sedan overfenders i'm looking at bringing them over :blink:

now for it to be economically feasable for myself to do so i will be making copies of these guards and selling them (gonna cost about ~1k to get the originals here)

if this goes ahead the kit will consist of both rear quarters (~+50mm) and a pair of rear door skins and the price will be set at ~600 bucks for the set (dependant on final purchase price, how much work i have to put into them to make them fit nice, cost of laying up moulds, materials etc) and should have some ready in about 3 months time :wave: (damn containers take so long to get here :) )

chapado1972-img600x474-1175782889img_0900.jpg

chapado1972-img600x450-1175782902img_0901.jpg

chapado1972-img600x450-1175782914img_0902.jpg

REGISTER YOUR INTEREST! :D

Edited by M I K E
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164920-all-32-four-door-owners-look-here/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Whats so funny

Its either we buy them and make copies.

or buy them and paint them white and stick them on my car with no moulds and every four door owner who wants to make there rears wider gets to miss out.

your such a bum head Ryan.

Edited by 32 4whore

ill take 3!!!

Seriously though Id absolutely love a set, I've been looking for ages and I'm willing to do just about anything to get some (especially if they cover the dents in the back of my car).

None for me... I only buy body parts that are already the right colour and ready to fit :P Nah got no money and got more important things to spend money on, like a bigger turbo... :)

Would love some though, would look sick and cover my damage well too :P, but then dont have the wheels to fill the guards etc etc. :D

Edited by salad
None for me... I only buy body parts that are already the right colour and ready to fit :) Nah got no money and got more important things to spend money on, like a bigger turbo... :D

Would love some though, would look sick and cover my damage well too :blink:, but then dont have the wheels to fill the guards etc etc. :D

I used to think you were kewl. Spacers are your friend. get a nice wide track, makes for easier sliding.

Dont be soft, go wide for your ride or gimmie cash so I can.

does the car have to be ruber back to metal where the urethane goes or will the paint be strong enough to hold?

dont the rivets stick out too much to blend in?

how do they attach to the wheel arch? can the original wheel arches be cut out so the wheels can get right up behind the wide gaurds or are they needed for suport?

sorry for all the questions

Edited by =premo=

to be honest i'm not a panel beater so i wouldn't be able to tell you, i only have limited information that i have gathered from panel beater mates, so i would recommend speaking to someone about fitting them if you are going to do it yourself.

i said rivets because i'm not sure if glue will be enough to hold them there even if you glass them in but as you said they wouldn't sit flush as there are no recesses in the panels to put them - something i might look into putting in?

looking at the pictures, it appears the guards are fixed to the lower section of the arches only which means you can cut out/bash up/whatever you want to do to your existing guards

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...