Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've got a '95 R33 GTS Type M with a big pipe, blitz BOV and a turbo timer, otherwise stock. Starts and idles fine when cold, as soon as it's warm it won't idle at all, stalls etc. I had a Honda Legend which started doing similar, and it turned out to be ignition leads- is this likely here?

It's only just been complied, and I think it sat for a fair while in Japan before being shipped. I've run one tank of PULP through it, half a tank with injector cleaner but with no improvement. Very occasionally it settles to idle, chugs a bit then idles properly, but not very often.

Edited by bikkies
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165075-idle-stalling/
Share on other sites

its either your blitz bov, air flow meter, coilpacls, sparkies

cause atmospheric bov ruin your idle. chuck a stock bov back on and see how u go.

or try electric contact cleaner on ur afm. or swap and try someones u know is working.

coilpacks, check if u got any hairline cracks on them

sparkies check if they need replacing or ur using the wrong heat range.

hope that helps

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165075-idle-stalling/#findComment-3058159
Share on other sites

its either your blitz bov, air flow meter, coilpacls, sparkies

cause atmospheric bov ruin your idle. chuck a stock bov back on and see how u go.

or try electric contact cleaner on ur afm. or swap and try someones u know is working.

coilpacks, check if u got any hairline cracks on them

sparkies check if they need replacing or ur using the wrong heat range.

hope that helps

Thanks for that- it ran the same (or worse) without the BOV, and with standard exhaust and airbox as I took it up to register with all stock gear fitted- we thought it might have been a tuning issue as it should have been tuned to suit the high flow air filter, big exhaust etc but made no dirfference. I'm thinking plugs and/or leads, or contaminated fuel from sitting. If it was a fuel issue though I'd expect it to be the same at startup. It also lugs and farts on the timer, but usually keeps running until switchoff. Confusing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165075-idle-stalling/#findComment-3058255
Share on other sites

Hey mate.........

I am had some problems currently i am having THAT EXACT problem....... cold idle is fine! Its almost that choke is fine then...... starts to misfire and splutter when she warms....

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=164545 thats my post........ there are some things u could try there..... but

out of interest i did CHANGE my ignitor loom

Edited by RipNGrip
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165075-idle-stalling/#findComment-3064655
Share on other sites

i also have this problem.

i got a r33 gtst with a 3inch catback ex, FMIC, iridium plugs, K&N pannel filter, and a new o2 sensor. i thought it might be timming or the throttle position sensor.

any way im taking it to Mercury Motorsports to get a SAFCII installed and get my timming and tune done.

ill let u know how it goes once its done.

Aif

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165075-idle-stalling/#findComment-3068768
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
×
×
  • Create New...