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Yes, that's what i meant. Airflow is 1080-1100 when on idle.

If i rev it does go back to the same level.

Is that a bit high?

I wonder if I've soldered the wires incorecctly but i thought it wouldn't work at all if i did that.

It's a series II so i had to share the 2 ground signals (from memory)

Also, I've been looking around at maybe getting a replacement or still hanging on to the fact that this one is OK and just set up wrong.

I saw a unit on the Jap Auctions and looks as if the signal ground (guessing) has it's own 'C' clip that would bolt onto the body for grounding rather than going thru the ECU.

Also, that wire was extra long on the Tomei plug which suggests it should be different and had the length to be wired into the chassis.

Would this change the behaviour of the signal overall?

..and, if peeps are looking at getting one, they are on nengun as a Tomei branded Z32 for $360 delivered.

If i get a replacement, i think i will get that one.

It's so much freeegan hassle to get around this and i don't wanna risk getting another dodge one.

And that is possible as i don't think these other dodge ones were sold to rip people off, just the seller, even reputable sellers, didn't know about this bad batch ???

Anyway, just putting it out there as an option, bit more expensive but only $50 over the cheapest I've seen.

..and, if peeps are looking at getting one, they are on nengun as a Tomei branded Z32 for $360 delivered.

Yer, they're the ones i just got and will be installing within the next few days.

Funnily enough tho, they came in a what looked to be a genuine nissan box :D

Thats correct as its not a genuine Nissan part number - Its a Bosch part number

The Bosch Z32 AFM still has the Nissan (JECS) part # on it (22680 30P00 A36-000 N62) and the Bosch part # is on the box (F00E000202).

Yes, that's what i meant. Airflow is 1080-1100 when on idle.

If i rev it does go back to the same level.

Is that a bit high?

I wonder if I've soldered the wires incorecctly but i thought it wouldn't work at all if i did that.

It's a series II so i had to share the 2 ground signals (from memory)

I had a look at datalogit log I took some time ago.

My Z32 afm on idle see's 1165mv on average. It never sways more than 10mv either way providing I don't touch the steering or pump the brakes. :stupid:

But it is a 3ltr so it 'may' suck a little more on idle.

Yes, I got the dyno done and the replacement Z32 is working fine. Not so happy with the power output though of 200kw non shootout mode. It is a low reading dyno, but I was expecting more power.

At 1.3bar it's making 190kw at 5500rpm, but then it just flatlines the power curve. Even at 1.5 bar it gives slightly better mid range, but the same flattening out of the power curve occurs. The boost does not drop off at all with the AVCR, it holds steady to redline. My tuner thinks it's the justjap intercooler I bought, and suggested that I replace it for a thicker ARC item with low pressure loss. The AVCR Duty cycle is at 40% and holds boost steady. Knock count is at 14 W.O.T. with an AFR of 10.0 from 6000rpm to redline.

What I have is;

Series 1 RB25DET with 1.8mm headgasket. (newly built with 6000km run in)

Standard cams

Apexi pod filter & Z32

Greddy Inlet Manifold

Apexi Cast top mount exhaust manifold

Garrett GT30/40 .63

Tial 38mm external wastegate

Greddy Type R BOV plummed back

Power FC and AVCR

720cc Nismo's.

60x30x76 tube and fin FMIC with 2.5" piping throughout.

3" exhaust from the turbo back.

Should I put money towards an ARC intercooler, or should I install a set of 256/264 hks camshafts next?

Is the 1.8mm headgasket lowering compression so much that it is effecting the amount of boost I have to run to reach my target of 250kw?

Edited by silman

Well Silman, at least the Z32 is sorted

Did you find when you swapped it over and started the engine, it was crap idle and needed an obvious retune, or was it still OK to drive just with more room to move on the verticle axis?

Birnie - is you new AFM working well now? Has it been tuned.

1. Is there any comparison Dodgy vs New with regards to volts at idle?

2. Anyway we can tell a bad one before the tuner has almost completed a tune

I am getting a new one, making sure it doesn't have the Nissan embossing but not sure what else I can do..

Cheers fellas

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