Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can this be done with the use of a fuel cut defender?

They say that these things run really rich on boost so would the extra boost still run OK ? or will it run lean on anything over the boost cut and ping ??

I dont have the money for a upgraded computer right now and I want to squeeze a bit more performance outta it.. The intercooler is upgraded (supra round core) and so is the turbo (steel rear wheel T3 highflowed with t4 front wheel)

Would it be worth installing the turbo smart fuel cut def? or just waiting for a S-AFC or something?

is anyone using a standard computer on more then 13 PSI boost ?

It is a series 2 engine

Anyone have any idea how much you can get outta a standard computer?!?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16529-standard-r33-computer-running-15psi/
Share on other sites

with that turbo setup your stock ECU isn't gonna do you any justice as they map's don't really suit turbo upgrades.

as when boost hits it will be different and stuff. I should put a stock ECU into mine and see what it does ... (i got bigger turb's too but i got chipped ECU with a smooth as curve)

S-AFC might fix it but i'm not sure?

Originally posted by RON-15H

I have a 95skyline stock comp and stock ecu running 14psi with a electronic dual stage boost controller without any probs. i have a front mount and exhuast and air filter

What kind of front mount ???

Anyone else??

Originally posted by YBSLO4

Dude you'll probably find that the factory boost control cut wont allow you to go that high, and with a stock cooler and turbo pushing that kinda psi is asking for it to giveway. The turbo seal on teh exhaust housing on a stock R33 is only rated to 14psi out of the factory, in other words once ya go passed that limit it is passed what its made to withstand for a certain period of time. Ya better off saving ya bucks and keep it on say 10psi max for no with no cooler or turbo and get ya self the stuff ya need to make it safe to run that kinda boost. Go zorst and filter to free up the airflow which itself will give you a slight increase in boost naturally, then turn up to say 10psi with a bleed valve, and then hold out for a cooler and computer/piggy back once thats done to correct the richness and allow you to get the most out of it.

You obviously did not read my post.

The turbo is a steel rear wheel VL turbo with a T4 front wheel.

It has a upgraded intercooler (Supra round core) & CAI setup with K&N

Ive got a boost cut fuel cut defender Turbo smart that I want to install. I just want to know if the standard computers mixtures would still be OK at 15 PSI!!!!

So no one has done mods to their car and kept the standard computer ?!?

So no one has done mods to their car and kept the standard computer ?!?

not many do, for these sorts of reasons

basically no.. its not going to run 15psi without u installing at least some type of electronic management - thats like double the maximum boost the stock ECU is expecting, never mind the different turbo and its different characteristics.

Your cheapest way out is the SAFC $550 fit it yourself and the tune is $50-100, as far as the fuel cut defender goes I havn't got one (at 12psi though) can't say what would happen at 15psi. Best thing to do is put it on a dyno and check what your A/F ratio is now.

i was running 18psi on an aftermarket turbo with an apexi speed cut also i had a variable(homemade)afm signal adjuster which also double as cold start injectors emulator. don't think u can buy one of these, but it was good for 18psi on a gt28 with external wastegate, so yes it can be done, but u need lots of patience.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...