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Hey guys, Ive recently put a twincam rb30 into my vl and i have a few teething problems from the word go. the engine starts and idles great, revs fine etc. I had the CAS set completly clockwise (which i believe is the ignition fully retarded) and it ran ok. it would'nt make any power put still pulled nicely enough to clock up a few K's untill i get it tuned. the motor would sometimes cough n splutter put i thought it was lack of tuning. Today i thought Id advance the timing so i moved the cas about halfway. it makes allot more power but the coughing and spluttering is 10 time worse and allot more violent. would something be wrong with a sensor like the afm or cas or the coil packs etc?????

The motor specds are as follows.

Rb30 block rebuilt to Na spec for 8.2 C.P ratio

VCT Rb25 Head

standard r33 ecu, turbo, manifolds, injectors, coil packs and N/A fuel pumps

Im taking it to get looked at soon but i was wondering if any1 else has had this problem. Thanks

Edited by _Sawyer_
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Ok a couple of things, first check the timing is good, sounds like it may be out 1-2 on the exhaust or intake timing. Then check that the VVT solenoid has been wired up, this is often not wired up, it is probably not causing this issue but check it anyway, its 12v live is also shared with the idle control valve and the o2 heater, should show 12v live with ign on ground it against the car. Check the gap on your plugs and for any cracks in the packs.

Also check that the block has been modified to suit the r33 exhaust manifold, if you have not done this then the head will not sit flush on the block and it may show symptoms like this.

and then lastly switch the ECU over into diagnostic mode and check to see if it spits back any error codes. Should show code 55 for all sensors OK. Then probably wouldn't harm to go to mode 2 or whatever it is and check the afr's when it breaks down.

The led is on for lean off for rich, if its stays on either of these when breaking down then check your fuel system accordingly. Thats for single led ECU's

Edit: wait a minute your not still using the stock vl fuel pump are you?

Edited by James_03
Ok a couple of things, first check the timing is good, sounds like it may be out 1-2 on the exhaust or intake timing. Then check that the VVT solenoid has been wired up, this is often not wired up, it is probably not causing this issue but check it anyway, its 12v live is also shared with the idle control valve and the o2 heater, should show 12v live with ign on ground it against the car. Check the gap on your plugs and for any cracks in the packs.

Also check that the block has been modified to suit the r33 exhaust manifold, if you have not done this then the head will not sit flush on the block and it may show symptoms like this.

and then lastly switch the ECU over into diagnostic mode and check to see if it spits back any error codes. Should show code 55 for all sensors OK. Then probably wouldn't harm to go to mode 2 or whatever it is and check the afr's when it breaks down.

The led is on for lean off for rich, if its stays on either of these when breaking down then check your fuel system accordingly. Thats for single led ECU's

Edit: wait a minute your not still using the stock vl fuel pump are you?

Defiantly not the exhaust hittin with the block, ill do a check on the ecu soon. I reckon it's the packs because its a real tempromental problem, it will be great one second then shit the next, and ya i am using the stock fuel pumps. is that likely to be the problem? thanks

Edited by _Sawyer_
yeh I probably wouldn't recommend running a 20 year old n/a fuel pump.

well it dosent have any spark now so it looks like the CAS ot the ignitor has packed up. makes sense because when the motor missed it seemed to do it across all cylinders and jerk violently, not just a few and slowly stall the engine

well it dosent have any spark now so it looks like the CAS ot the ignitor has packed up. makes sense because when the motor missed it seemed to do it across all cylinders and jerk violently, not just a few and slowly stall the engine

More than likely the cas, or a wiring issue, the igniter has 6 individual circuits inside so its unlikely they would all fail.

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