Removing/replacing Stud Bolts R34 Rear
Announcements
-
Similar Content
-
-
Latest Posts
-
Have you confirmed its the actual axles? Also the wheel bearings that mount on the hubs to hold the axles wear out. I replaced mine as they got play in them. It sorted my play issue. -
Ive converted a few clusters for the R33 with 320km/h dials. On the back there are some pads which can be bridged or unbridged (using solder or wick braid) to calibrate it. There is one bridge which is for MPH <> KPH; and there are combinations of bridges to offset it. There is probably a diagram For example; this is my conversion for a 180km/h dial to a 320km/h dial (I put custom GT-R dials on it with the GTS25t layout) If you have J2 soldered (assuming the S clusters have a similar config to the R clusters); you may need to remove that solder
-
Back on topic 😉, these are some of the notable pages from the booklets that are supplied with each weekly parts update. I never knew the BNR32 test mule car had an S13 Silvia body... -
This. A 3d wheel alignment is like $120...just take it to the shop. Since theres probably multiple adjustments that need to be made after changing something. Mine has front/rear lower arms, traction rods, tension rods, camber arms, toe arms, front upper arms, hicas kit, sway bars and coilovers. I measure from the edge of the bolt holes on the originals and set the same length on all the adjustable stuff to dial it as close as I could to OEM. Took it straight for alignment; it didnt feel right at all...after alignment, it feels perfect. Similarly i've just changed the springs on another car; and I still needed multiple adjustments to bring it back in spec.
-
A full Veilside kitted JZA80 Supra in Meriken park in Kobe city a few weeks back
-
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now