Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Items are in good condition, all work with no problems. I am located in Logan City (Queensland) willing to post items at buyers expense. Interested in any parts? Contact me on 0433 63 95 97.

Stock ECU: $70 O.N.O

Stock Exhaust with 3" Tip: $60 O.N.O

Stock Intercooler: $30 O.N.O

Edited by KustomR33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165584-r33-stock-parts/
Share on other sites

Quite a few PM's. All replied too. Everything is still for sale at the moment. I can get photos of items over the weekend if anyone would like them. Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165584-r33-stock-parts/#findComment-3077342
Share on other sites

hey buddy, what diameter is the stock intercooler piping?

I'm not 100% sure but I'll measure it for you if your keen, this is from another member who recently took his stock R33 Intercooler off I'm pretty sure it's right.

225 x 185 x 59 - core size

350 - end tanks included

55 - inlet/outlet size

All PM's have been replied to. Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165584-r33-stock-parts/#findComment-3089887
Share on other sites

Back to the top we go :nyaanyaa:

Taking offers on all items!

hi mate, you still have the stock exhaust? i need one for an r33 gtst from cat back on a 4 door, not sure if they will be same but will yours pass EPA? should do anyway i need one soon and can swap for a japanese one that i have 4inch

you can call me to discuss on 0421795757

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165584-r33-stock-parts/#findComment-3113346
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...