Jump to content
SAU Community

A'PEXi AVC-R -Vs- GReddy Pro-Fed B

Guest | hype^ |

By Guest | hype^ |,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

400HP Experienced

400HP

Posted
Posted

even though the Advan GTR started as a GTS4 its had a full transplant of all the GTR gear. Even most of the panels are GTR so its more a GTR than a GTS4. The only GTS4 part I can tell really is the sunroof.... then again I don't know a great deal about it.

The japs seem to like the Profec better but then again the Apexi has the nice rice factor :)

Also if you plan to get a PowerFC the AVC-R is an easy option.

Guest SadisticRage

Guest SadisticRage

Posted
Posted

From a practical perspective I have a preference towards the Profec B.

Sure the AVC-R holds the title for the most bells and whistles but in reality, how many people ACTUALLY have time to utilise all its features when driving....I tend to spend more time looking where Im going.

The other concern is that the AVC-R is only a relaible form of controller up to about 1.5bar...beyond that and its accuracy is seriously compromised.

I suspect this is why most of the big name Japanese tuning houses are not using the AVC-R in high output cars.

Fitzpatrick Speed Works Mentor

Fitzpatrick Speed Works

Posted
Posted

my advice is get niether i know this will met strong criticism but hear me out:uh-huh: If you have a standard turbo get a dual stage turbo smart if you have a bigg turbo set the boost through the wastegate. Now i just havent said this blindly ive had some experience on both and from talking to an expert in tuning this is my conclusion. you see if you do a dyno run with max boost max everything the computer sets this when you run lower boost it only resets to an extent so i believe your not saving that much extra juice or whatever by running it at a lower boost you better off running your car the way its tuned all the time if this means 15psi then thats it. I have a profec b but im goin to take it off my GTR n put it on the r33 (cause my mum drives it) cause i believe that extra wiring hassle with calibration and weight are not worth the small amount of fuel i would be saving!!:( Just my 2c worth. And i know its mainly the ease of just changing boost that is the luxury just something to think about if your tryin to decide between two part for your car a fmic or a profec b for instance:rolleyes:

Guest | hype^ |

Guest | hype^ |

Posted
Posted

bahaha xrsist..

but you aint making any sence...

your telling me to just run what its tuned at (max boost) all the time..

then why the need for a "dual stage" bc??

besides a EBC is much more accurate ...

but the choice between the EBC and a FMI is a good point..

XrSiSt Grand Master

XrSiSt

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by | hype^ |

bahaha xrsist..  

but you aint making any sence...

your telling me to just run what its tuned at (max boost) all the time..  

then why the need for a "dual stage" bc??  

besides a EBC is much more accurate ...  

but the choice between the EBC and a FMI is a good point..

- hahaa.. yea. one of those long days at work does that to you.

Basically what s13drifter is saying is that he would spend his

money on a fmic first before getting a EBC to keep detonation

at a minimal. You do want your engine to last don't you.. or have

you got conrods,cams new head and stuff lined up already????

If you really want to boost it, just buy a stage turbosmart or something for now.. It won't be hard to sell later.

Now back to the topic... If you really want the EBC, then by all

means get ProFec B... :uh-huh:

Fitzpatrick Speed Works Mentor

Fitzpatrick Speed Works

Posted
Posted

i agree with xrsist that the profec b is probs better unless you are goin to go to a power fc then the apexi is a better option. The reason that i suggested the daul stage bc is because it is cheap and if you really do need to use 2 different boost settings in your car. I know that they arent as accurate for curving boost spiking but unless you are willing to re callibrate your ebc often they arent as efficient in stopping boost spiking as alot of people think. Im not against them i just thought id mention other options for you Hype, cheers.

:(

Guest Impul 25T

Guest Impul 25T

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by 400HP

even though the Advan GTR started as a GTS4 its had a full transplant of all the GTR gear. Even most of the panels are GTR so its more a GTR than a GTS4. The only GTS4 part I can tell really is the sunroof.... then again I don't know a great deal about it.

The japs seem to like the Profec better but then again the Apexi has the nice rice factor :D  

Also if you plan to get a PowerFC the AVC-R is an easy option.

The only GTS4 bits left are the shell and chassis....

And I would agree with SadisticRage, the AVC-R isn't good above 1.5bar..... go with the ProfecB

Fitzpatrick Speed Works Mentor

Fitzpatrick Speed Works

Posted
Posted

Hype the apexi is better with a power fc cause it can be intergrated into the power fc as they are both Apexi. Im not sure on this but i think the power fc might have a extra pin in for the avc-r and maybe a sub menu through though the computer that recognises that you are using the boost controller. Can any one varify this i could of been told ****:eek:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      Shoota's R33 GT-R RB30/26

      By PranK · Posted

      It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • ShezzDogs
      R34 Skyline Sunroof Won't Tilt/Vent

      By ShezzDogs · Posted

      Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Do you have some data like fuel pressure? It's really hard to say if you're still fighting a fuel system issue at this point. Could be something weird like the FPCM dipping out.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Yeah in that case, pulling the dent out. Event a very slight dent can create a lot of work filler-wise and there is a strong chance the panel won't be the factory shape when you are done (as the dent will result in a new high point created somewhere, then everything is brought up to that new high point... but the panel shouldn't be that high if that makes sense).  So you've filled and primed the panel and it is flat, why would you go back and remove the primer and add more filler? 
    • CRSKmD
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By CRSKmD · Posted

      Something else I have been faffing with while the car was off the road is making the AC work. Assuming the car isn't at a thermal limit the idea of having AC while waiting in line to go on track sounds delightful. I have actually been lugging around the weight of the entire system since 2018 when the RB25NEO went in without it working at all.  The main reason was in the first few events before I got around to re-gassing it the rubber hose that runs under the manifold had the factory heat wrap/sleeve fail resulting in this: ~2 years ago I purchased a complete used R32 AC line set but when I finally went to install it the line i needed was different where the expansion section is I found a local place that was able to replace the rubber section and re-crimp. They also added some modern heat sleeve to the hose Tight fit but fingers crossed this is the last physical piece of the puzzle needed
×
×
  • Create New...