Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Have a whole lot of stuff left over from R33 GTST series 1 wreck

* RB25DET motor with ECU and wiring if I can get it out from car 105,000k's $1200.00

* 5 speed box $1500

* diff centre & shafts $300

* complete brakes & hubs with slotted front discs cables complete $1000.00

* drivers door shell $100

* drivers regulator $100

* passenger regulator $100

* door glass $100

* rear 1/4 glass $50 each

* front reo cut for fmic $150

* rear reo $100

* tail lights $50 ea

* 3 inch cat back exhaust $200

* nismo front pipe $100

* Gab front shocks & lowered springs $300 pr

* 18 inch wheels & tyres, one rim damaged concept 9 black chrome $600.00

* std front struts & springs $100 pr

* rear kyb shock & lowered springs $200pr

* std rear struts & springs $100pr

* front mount intercoolers $100 some minor damage also have pipes some damage $100

* rear windscreen $300

*sreies 1 seats front $50 the pair

*door trim drivers $20 no switches

* series 1 steering wheel $30

* steering wheel surrounds $30

* series 2 wing \black $100

* series 1 wing black $50

* washer bottle $30

* overflow bottle $20

plus more i have forgotten about PM any questions

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165971-wrecking-r33-gtst/
Share on other sites

so whats the story with the wheels? how bad is the damage? Do you have any pics?

also what brand is the catback?

thanks.

one has a chunk missing from it cant be fixed, they are concept 9. I have attached a pic of them on the car

no brand just put on here in aus for exhaust

post-3004-1177580860.jpg

post-3004-1177580871.jpg

post-3004-1177580894.jpg

Hey all,

Have a whole lot of stuff left over from R33 GTST series 1 wreck

* RB25DET motor with ECU and wiring if I can get it out from car 105,000k's $1200.00

* 5 speed box $1500

* diff centre & shafts $300

* complete brakes & hubs with slotted front discs cables complete $1000.00

* drivers door shell $100

* drivers regulator $100

* passenger regulator $100

* door glass $100

* rear 1/4 glass $50 each

* front reo cut for fmic $150

* rear reo $100

* tail lights $50 ea

* 3 inch cat back exhaust $200

* nismo front pipe $100

* Gab front shocks & lowered springs $300 pr

* 18 inch wheels & tyres, one rim damaged concept 9 black chrome $600.00

* std front struts & springs $100 pr

* rear kyb shock & lowered springs $200pr

* std rear struts & springs $100pr

* front mount intercoolers $100 some minor damage also have pipes some damage $100

* rear windscreen $300

*sreies 1 seats front $50 the pair

*door trim drivers $20 no switches

* series 1 steering wheel $30

* steering wheel surrounds $30

* series 2 wing \black $100

* series 1 wing black $50

* washer bottle $30

* overflow bottle $20

plus more i have forgotten about PM any questions

thanks

need parts can you call me on 0402 513 424 or please give your ph number thanks nick

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...