Jump to content
SAU Community

Apexi Pod Filter

bugger

By bugger,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

DRD-00F Grand Master

DRD-00F

Posted
Posted

never heard that... i also dont see how that is possible...

you can run your car without a filter at all and it makes mad induction noise (that WILL eventually blow your motor) so the only reason that it would blow the motor would be by lack of airflow... and i doubt Apexi would release a filter that didnt flow to the necessary standards... which would be kinda hard to make anyway...

whichever one of your dickhead friends told you that should get a kick in the shin... hes an idiot...

R33LIN Collaborator

R33LIN

Posted
Posted
WTF? what retard told you that?

Regardless, the question should be 'why do you want to change the pod filter?' it's going to make stuff all performance difference.... save your money

+1

LOL...

how about keeping the original air flow meter, with a Apexi Pod Filter head?

does it do the same induction?

any performance drop or whatsoever? :sorcerer:

hrms the pod filter screws on at the air flow meter. irregardless of whether you use a panel filter or a pod i am pretty sure u have to have the afm (correct me if i am wrong!). with the pod, you do hear an induction noise. if sounds/noises is all you want then you could always take off the stock air box cover. that should give you some induction noise

hope that helps!

:(

Omurru Veteran

Omurru

Posted
Posted

Ok seriously, according to alot of information out there from the big brands the apexi ones flow the best and the K&N ones filter the best. Weather you'll actually notice a difference between the two I doubt it. People who say they can notice a 5kw difference in power are full of shit. I've seen many people on dynos going from the orginal box, to a modified box to a pod to nothing on consecutive runs and majority of the time on stockish cars the original box makes the most power....go figure??? As far as I am concerned, put a pretty on on there so it looks nice and be done with it :(

as to you last question, going to an open pod from a standard box you'll probably loose a bit of power cos pods suck in more hot air than the box. its obviously gonna effect you more in city driving where your car heats up as opposed to a track......

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted
Alright.

My question now is

Is it possible to change the pod filter head from K&N to APexi one without changing the air flow meter?

or in the first place, can it be done like that? that means i'm keeping the K&N air flow meter.

will there be any difference in whatsoever?

you don't have a K+N airflow meter. you have a K+N pod filter, most likely mounted to an adapter which is then bolted to your factory nissan Air Flow meter. to fit your apexi pod you need to remove your K+N pod filter and remove the adapter too, now bolt your apexi pod directly to the nissan airflow meter.

if it was me, I would just leave the K+N filter on there. They are very good.

DECIM8 Grand Master

DECIM8

Posted
Posted (edited)

Apexi makes a 16hp gain (estimated from testing) also comes up better than HKS or K&N models in filtration and also still makes wicked sound ..

Hope that helps .. buy one!

Oh and for your info .. testing was done with 45psi which is heavy as .. the apexi showed almost no dust particles through and the items which got through would not effect the engine as the particles are small enough to not scratch or harm the pistons etc.. It sucked a little less .1 or somthing than the HKS model *retail $500* and made higher hp increase (Id say because apexi spins the air intake where as HKS just sucks huge amounts into a small hole

Edited by DECIM8
DECIM8 Grand Master

DECIM8

Posted
Posted

what are you asking? on what?? on a car I assume .. it was only .5hp higher than any other brand .. K&N was second.

it was tested on a vacume cleaner if you familar with the test .. so im assuming it was then tested on a car .. however not sure

tjandriesen Proficient

tjandriesen

Posted
Posted

I'm running an Apexi on my GTR. Box off - pod filter adaper (a 4 inch Ali pipe) bolts onto the AFM and the filters onto it. Easy to do. I get a decent amount of intake noise. Can't tell you I could feel any HP difference.

I kinds doubt switching from one brand to another makes much difference, unless one doesn't fliter very well and you don't want junk going into the intake. Sure wouldn't be the best bang for the buck performance wise.

There is an issue with sucking in hot air versus and airbox. Ironic to see most who are looking for perfromance to then add an air box of some sort.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...