Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi I have a R33 gtst. My car no matter if its hot or cold will not idle. This is what it does car starts easy, revs to 1900 rpm,drops to 1500, pause, then to 1000 for a sec then dies. Stalls all the time. Runs perfect above 1500 rpm.

I have a HKS Sq BOV.

I have tried so far:

Cleaning Acc valve and all that muck out of the back of the plenum

Repacing fuel filter

setting the TPS

Turning Idle screw in and out with the TPS disconected ( For some reson the IDle does not change 1 bit weather i turn it in or out)

Cleaning out the AFM

Located where the Ecu idle screw should be, to find the isnt 1 on it

checked for leaks

what have i missed? Can someone help me out please!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166540-r33-idle-problem-need-some-help/
Share on other sites

1. Go back to your stock bov

2. Get a plumb back bov

3. Get a tune

your atmo bov will be releasing a lot of air into the atmosphere, yet your air flow comp will read it as being in the system, so the fuel will be added as if there is that amount of air in there... but its not... any of the 3 will fix this problem... normally an atmo bov wont cause it to completely die at idle, it does create idling and gear changing problems, but not normall this bad... which is why i said get a tune..

anyway, hope one of those fixes it for you :P

the bov i have i think is a plub bak though ( is that where a vacuum line sucks the valve open cuse its one of those) I dunno.

u know any tuning garages on the sunny coast?

thanks

a hks ssqv bov is atmo unless you have the recirc kit. is the plumback line blocked off?

Had the same problem...was running a HKS bov..and the car wont idle properly..only to find theres a slight vacuum leak from the HKS BOV as its a Atmo BOV..i put the stock BOV back and plumb it back into my intake pipe..problem gone..like wat DRD OFF said..the afm is gettin weird reading cos of the atmo BOV..

Had the same problem...was running a HKS bov..and the car wont idle properly..only to find theres a slight vacuum leak from the HKS BOV as its a Atmo BOV..i put the stock BOV back and plumb it back into my intake pipe..problem gone..like wat DRD OFF said..the afm is gettin weird reading cos of the atmo BOV..

man what the hell is drd off? :wave:

as for the original poster, you might want to save up some money and get a tune, you will notice that your car will run a shit load better... most well tuned skylines with atmo bovs wont actually stall, but if yours is, its a bit under the weather and could use a check up :wave:

i think you will like the change :unsure:

  • 2 years later...

please try an alternate stock ECU

my old ECU was fried and i drove a car like this for 6 months lol - not fun looking like a tool revving your car at every set of lights.

swap it out and see if you know someone with an stock ECU'd r33

hi guys

May not be the problem but i found info in regards to small cracks/holes in the little vacuum line on the turbo

Also my car played up bad one day turned out the boost/vacuum line to my gauge was leaking a little causing same problems as listed above

I would go round the engine bay with a can of carby clean or start ya basterd and see if there is any leaks else were i know you said you checked for leaks but it dose'nt take much to create a problem

happy leak hunting

Hi I have a R33 gtst. My car no matter if its hot or cold will not idle. This is what it does car starts easy, revs to 1900 rpm,drops to 1500, pause, then to 1000 for a sec then dies. Stalls all the time. Runs perfect above 1500 rpm.

I have a HKS Sq BOV.

I have tried so far:

Cleaning Acc valve and all that muck out of the back of the plenum

Repacing fuel filter

setting the TPS

Turning Idle screw in and out with the TPS disconected ( For some reson the IDle does not change 1 bit weather i turn it in or out)

Cleaning out the AFM

Located where the Ecu idle screw should be, to find the isnt 1 on it

checked for leaks

what have i missed? Can someone help me out please!

Make sure your fuel pump dropping resistor is plugged in. If any work has been done on the aerial recently it is possible the resistor plug has been unplugged. It is located in the passenger side rear cavity behind the wheel arch (where the jack is located). It is a rectangular silver item with a 2 pin plug.

Cheers

Ben

You sorta can and you sorta can't. Do some research on Nistune.

Are you running an after market plumb back BOV? What else is installed?

i've also got a hdi GT spec hybrid intercooler, aftermarket coilpacks, a boost controller (only running 10 pound) and a HKS cat back exaughst system.. apart from that i'm stock.. i've checked for leaky hoses and i've tried a different ECU and i've replaced my air flow sensor..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...