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I put a 044 pump in my car a couple of weeks ago and from day one i noticed that after it has been running for more then an hour or so it makes a really loud noise and the air fuel ratio goes lean on idle and it starts coughing etc but on boost it is not leaning out....

Has anyone had issues like this before ? faulty pump?

I want to make sure that this pump is in working order before boosting the engine again as 9psi is getting boring even at 23deg timing >_<

Edited by Guilt-Toy
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because this pump is flowing a crap load and it only gets this noisy going to work in the morning and back when in traffic.. maybe the petrol is getting really warm and the pump is not able to be cooled down causing it to not hold much pressure?

i remember sydneykid saying something about the fuel gets pumped from the tank to the engine and back quite a few times and it heats up.

Can you get fuel coolers? :P

need to do more testing i guess

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Have you got a surge tank ???

Caue my way of thinking is this:

The 044 flows more than the Walbro right ??

If the walbro can't keep up with the 044 you could have problems hence a surge tank between them

I could be completely wrong of course....

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well people use standard intank pumps or gtr pumps in the tank and use the 044 after it without any issues... they dont drive in traffic though...

might pm sydneykid :)

i got no surge tank.

Have you got a surge tank ???

Caue my way of thinking is this:

The 044 flows more than the Walbro right ??

If the walbro can't keep up with the 044 you could have problems hence a surge tank between them

I could be completely wrong of course....

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Guilt-Toy.

I have a couple of good mates that both run the 044 in tank and have absolutely no issues. The pump is quiet apart from those warmish days sitting in traffic where the pump begins making a surging/gurgling type sound.

My pump is mounted externally and gets the same surging/gurgling sound in warm weather when sitting in traffic.

However.. For some time now I've suffered an intermittent problem that is similar to yours, on cruise and idle the afr leans out yet its fine under full throttle, the difference being my pump doesn't change its sound.

At one point it got really bad where the car would lean out on off boost accel. causing it to feel dougy and surge, get some boost on board and it would clear its throat and take off.

I ripped everything off, replaced hose clamps (but not IC hoses) and it appeared to clear it up to the point where it now only occasionally does it on idle or light cruise.

I have suspected my pump as it was fitted back in 2002 and has travelled almost ~160,000km's.

I plan on getting to the bottom of it very soon. :S

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i erally do think its because i only notice it when i have under half a tank... maybe over half a tank the fuel does not really heat up as much...

I am pretty sure its because the fuel is getting heated up. maybe i can wire up a trigger to give the pump 10 volts on low throttle and then switch the full 12v relay when on boost.

Need to work something out... im sure fuel would even evaporate a little bit being sent to the engine bay and back every 3 minutes....

maybe a air duct and a little cooler with a 12v fan on it in the engine bay ? :ninja: like one of those overclockers pc case fans !!

something needs to be done - i want to fix it too.

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i erally do think its because i only notice it when i have under half a tank... maybe over half a tank the fuel does not really heat up as much...

I am pretty sure its because the fuel is getting heated up. maybe i can wire up a trigger to give the pump 10 volts on low throttle and then switch the full 12v relay when on boost.

Need to work something out... im sure fuel would even evaporate a little bit being sent to the engine bay and back every 3 minutes....

maybe a air duct and a little cooler with a 12v fan on it in the engine bay ? :ninja: like one of those overclockers pc case fans !!

something needs to be done - i want to fix it too.

hey Anthony

have you bypassed the low voltage control for the intank [gts uses a relay and dropping resistor on the earth side of the pump and gtr uses an electronic modulator on the earth side so the pump only gets 5.5 volts at the pump on idle and light throttle that could cause cavitation at the 044 as its getting 14.4 volts

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i erally do think its because i only notice it when i have under half a tank... maybe over half a tank the fuel does not really heat up as much...

I am pretty sure its because the fuel is getting heated up. maybe i can wire up a trigger to give the pump 10 volts on low throttle and then switch the full 12v relay when on boost.

Need to work something out... im sure fuel would even evaporate a little bit being sent to the engine bay and back every 3 minutes....

maybe a air duct and a little cooler with a 12v fan on it in the engine bay ? :ninja: like one of those overclockers pc case fans !!

something needs to be done - i want to fix it too.

im pretty sure John from UAS was running a fuel cooler on his track Z - this was along time ago that i saw it but it may still be on it and he could give you some info perhaps

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ahhhh he sold me my car :ninja: will never forget the test drive.. ohhh and the cruise in Secret.. *drooooool*

Yeah might have to call him tomorrow!!

I have wired up a relay and both pumps get 12volts.

I am pretty sure i need a fuel cooler.

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ahhhh he sold me my car :ninja: will never forget the test drive.. ohhh and the cruise in Secret.. *drooooool*

Yeah might have to call him tomorrow!!

I have wired up a relay and both pumps get 12volts.

I am pretty sure i need a fuel cooler.

im thinking about it too, i run the return from the engine back into my surge tank but dont seem to notice many issues other than a slight change of noise when its really hot outside

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Hey guys,

There are fuel coolers avaliable have a look through street machine mags and hot rod mags etc they are mainly used for old school drag cars......think oil cooler on a much smaller scale.....you just mount it in the air flow just the same to.....then run your fuel line to it instead of the fuel rail then from the cooler to the fuel rail.

This is one type, comes in 8" -8 and -10 fitting and 12" -8 and -12 fittings

post-16947-1177925653.jpg

Its availiable through VPW

www.vpw.com.au

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Hi Guilt Toy,

i resently had my intank upgraded to a Bosch 044 on my GTR and suffer similar symptoms from day one also. Some other problems i have is stalling when pulling up at a set of lights and also spmetimes taking alot of cranking to get started.

I was going to check my ignitor and pump earths as both these faults also cause similar problems. I'm outta the country at the moment so can't do to much about it, but with the problem only occuring on hot days after an hour or so of driving i figure the fuel getting hot is i likely cause.

If you get the problem solved please post your fix.

cheers

Paul

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Will do Paul.

Here is the URL.

http://www.vpw.com.au/productgroup.asp?Cat...p;PrdGrpID=2287

Around $180 for a 12" system. I know where i am going to mount it too. But i am still thinking about going at it another way.

Question i have wouldnt it be illegal to have a fuel cooler sitting on the front of a street car? I cant believe that modding my car soo much has given me fuel temp issues. What next ?

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ahhhh he sold me my car :rolleyes: will never forget the test drive.. ohhh and the cruise in Secret.. *drooooool*

Yeah might have to call him tomorrow!!

I have wired up a relay and both pumps get 12volts.

I am pretty sure i need a fuel cooler.

The stock pump always gets +12volts but the earth side isnt a hard earth so if you havnt wired a hard earth you wont get full voltage across the original pump terminals because the negative terminal will be at about + 4-5 volts above earth at idle.

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I have not been clear enough..

i wired up a 12v relay to my car about 2 months ago - i have 2 wires connected DIRECTLY to the battery for power and earth and use the stock power feed to trigger the relay.

So the pumps get full 12v from big wires connected directly to the battery!

there are no power issues here. the issue is only there after an hour of driving.... so yeah

will find try a few things over the next two weeks before i boost her up to 25psi

The stock pump always gets +12volts but the earth side isnt a hard earth so if you havnt wired a hard earth you wont get full voltage across the original pump terminals because the negative terminal will be at about + 6-8 volts above earth at idle.
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I have not been clear enough..

i wired up a 12v relay to my car about 2 months ago - i have 2 wires connected DIRECTLY to the battery for power and earth and use the stock power feed to trigger the relay.

So the pumps get full 12v from big wires connected directly to the battery!

there are no power issues here. the issue is only there after an hour of driving.... so yeah

will find try a few things over the next two weeks before i boost her up to 25psi

ok so it probly is hot fuel you could measure the return temp to prove it.

I ran 8g from the battery to a distro block in the boot because the stock wiring was only supplying 10.5v to the pump so now it gets 13.8v at the pump.

The gtr pumps 270 litres per hour at 14volts and will maintain flow up to 30 psi boost [according to tests done in the uk with a few different pumps]

So its no slouch but in a stock gtr it only gets 10.5 volts max and 5.5v at idle/ low demand, the manual says its to save power but i think the heated fuel in traffic had a part to play in too and 10.5 v is ok at stock boost

I got an adjustable voltage sensing relay from jaycar to connect to the map sensor for the sub meter boost gauge that will switch in a relay on the earth side of the pump at high boost but still allow the modulator to control the pump speed at idle/low loads and keep the fuel cool.

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I got an adjustable voltage sensing relay from jaycar to connect to the map sensor for the sub meter boost gauge that will switch in a relay on the earth side of the pump at high boost but still allow the modulator to control the pump speed at idle/low loads and keep the fuel cool.

hahe i love it, thats awesome. As it would be nice to be able to have it lower the flow, and not heat the fuel so much when idling through traffic.

Course... as long as it never accidentally doesn't flick over, and you hit max boost at 7k rpm with low volts and half fuel flow... :P

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