Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Just picked up my R33 S2 on the weekend from a long distance purchase and the seller did not mention this item was in the car at all, I was all for ripping it out thinking it was only for people who could not change gears at the right time, untill I read this thread :whistling:

What a cool device.....

Unfortunately for me it did not come with any destructions, can anyone point me to a Website that has a downloadable User manual? If not, can anyone upload a scanned copy of there's? That would be appreciated, or even a basic instruction of use? I'd really like to get the launch control sussed.

Cheers

Its pretty simple to use dude. You have the two settings, REV1 and REV2. REV1 is your normal rev limiter so you set that to what you want it to be and leave it (obviously this needs to be a few hundred RPM less than your factory limiter). As its a pretty basic design you will need to use trial and error to find the correct adjustment for the setting. REV2 is your launch rev limiter (ie only active when your handbrake is up, assuming they connected the switch) so you set this to a nice sweet torquey spot in the rev range.

Gain is just the frequency of the cuts...no idea which way is which but one will be long loud bangs and the other short sweet pops.

ps, Im not 100% if I got the two settings the right way away, ie REV1 could be launch limiter and REV2 could be normal...you will figure it out.

I'm currently getting one of these fitted in my car and of course no instruction so i've done a bit of research for the r33 rb25

i'm about 95% sure i've got it figured

okay here goes:

ECU ____________________ Bee*R

pin 41(green/black) - yellow wire cas 120 signal

pin 42(green/yellow) - green wire cas 1 signal

pin 49(white) - red wire 12v

pin 50(black) - black wire (earth)

the white wire is for the second limiter and is commonly put to the hand brake

Red wire: 12V+

Black wire: Earth

Yellow wire: RPM Signal

Green wire: Ignition signal

now I've concluded to this from scrolling through the several japanese instructions and comparing it back to the r33 rb25 workshop

post-21949-1182419685_thumb.jpg

now if i've got anything wrong please let me know

cheers

Edited by Darkon

I'll be hooking up a switch to the clutch pedal to allow launch control and flat shift ability.

IE. When you hit the clutch, the Rev-Limiter drops spark to attempt to go back to say 4500rpm......

Keep right foot on loud pedal.

Change gear, drop clutch and bang, off you go again.

I've driven an R34 GTR with this set up through the Motec and the changes are so smooth you wouldn't believe it. and Lightening fast.

Has anybody actually had theirs fitted and is it working?

I had a look at the little dials, and it has numbers around the base, and the dial keeps clicking around.

How accurate can you get the rev limit point?

How many RPM between each click..... ?

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...