Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

PCV is there to stop blow by pressurising the crank case. the reason I believe it would be better to put it through a filter first is that the contaminants in the crank case fumes can be somewhat removed by the process of filtration - so a catch can would be better than just plumbing those gases straight into the plenum. Any contaminents in the gases would effect the combustion process and therefore reduce power and economy - very slightly though, but none the less, would be detrimental. Unfortunatley it is not legal to vent these gasses to atmoshpere, so you would have to plumb them back somewhere.

I do know what you mean about coolers getting coated. I noticed on mine when I fitted a front mount that the intake side was black from oil and contamination - hardly helpful to the cooling process.

All of this would be from when driving on boost, as when not on boost the gases plumb directly into the plenum. The problem is the oil/contaminates that gets suspended in the gas from the crankcase, coat the cooler. Thus the creation of the catch can, or breather if you want to vent to atmo.

A good catch can will remove this contamination, therefore making the only downside to recirculating burnt gasses that there is no oxygen, but at least all the nasty rubbish isnt going directly into the plenum, so combustion would be effected to a lesser extent than if the gasses were plumbed directly into the plenum.

So, in summary, the amount of oil and contamination should be well within the capability of any decent catch can, as it is moving at low velocity, and isnt of a sufficient quantity to have a negative effect on the cooler - this only may happen if the catch can isnt particularly well designed, and when on boost, not when at idle/cruise conditions.

Basically, everything to gain and nothing to loose.

  • Replies 153
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

By the sounds of it you basically agree with me then (?) You no longer think its a good idea to get rid of the line to the plenum?

Just a few things though.

"PCV is there to stop blow by pressurising the crank case."

The two rocker cover outlets alone would stop this as any pressure could easily escape through them.

"All of this (crap inside the cooler) would be from when driving on boost, as when not on boost the gases plumb directly into the plenum."

True, but only when you leave the PCV system intact like how I discribe, otherwise the crap will go through the cooler at all times (albeit filtered with a catch can)

Look at brownies last drwing or my drawings, the PCV system is still there AND it still filters the gasses that go into the plenum! (the only differance between mine and his, is that mine uses active crankcase scavenging)

In either of our systems you get the benefits of filtering the gasses at ALL times AND you have the benefit of the gasses only going through the cooler sometimes.

Surely thats a good thing, right? I mean, why not do it that way if you can? Thats my gripe.

"Basically, everything to gain and nothing to loose."

Heres a dodgy scenario with figures plucked directy from my arse. I will choose figures that make it easier to understand and might not necissarily be what would happen but the will do to show the point.

(A) Blocked PCV with catch can fitted. Catch can filters 90% of the oil out. But the gasses go through the cooler 100% of the time.

(B) Dead standard system with no mods at all. It leaves 100% of the oil vapour in the gas. But 90% of the time the gasses go straight into the plenum and NOT through the cooler.

In that scenario the potential for clogging the cooler is the SAME for the catchcan system with blocked PCV line, and the standard system. The contaminents in the vapor are much less with the catch can system, but they flow through the cooler much more often. The benefits tend to cancel eachother out somwhat no matter what figures you use.

The catch can system is still better than stock because, the OVERALL amount of contaminents that reaches the ENGINE will still be 90% less than stock. But the amount of contaminents that will reach the COOLER will be similar.

© Catch can fitted with PCV intact, see brownies last pic or my pics. You still get ALL the benefits of (A), and you get ALL the benefits of (B). Would you agree that in that case there realy is everything to gain and nothing to loose?

Agreed filtering all the gasses would be ideal, (well nearly, venting them to atmo would be ideal, but illegal) and have them go through the plenum when not boosting, instead of the cooler, is better than having all the gasses go through the cooler all the time.

Just think that for the work involved, as the amount of contamination of the cooler from cruise idle blow by would be miniscule, versus blocking the line from the rocker cover to the plenum - just not too sure it would be worth the extra buggerising around and the extra hoses 'untidying':) the engine bay. For me anyways. I like to keep things neat.

Wouldnt it be easier to have two catch cans, one before the air intake, one between the rocker cover and plenum? - would be alot neater ;)

  • 1 month later...

Thanks guys...

Paul,

The catch can you are talking about. Is it one line in, and one line out (back to intake) and this line carrys just air not vapour. Correct?

The can i showed in my beautiful diagram was two lines in...and then just a breather at the top. But yeah like Steve said only one line really needed.

Dennis,

it only looks like i'm banned. :)

Thanks again,

Scott

  • 1 month later...
Guest MrEscortCosworth

oil/air seperater are legal if they do recirculate, and not vent to the air.

if your a smartassss to the cops they will pick on you and most of us dont know the law that well so they get away with a bit. i was under the impression that they are not allowed to look under the bonnet but hey, whats gonna be illegal, just make sure it all looks good and recirculate your bov, cos thats the main thing...

regards Anthony

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...