Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hello this may have been mentioned before, sorry, i need to know what bosch coils i should buy? i have seen it done before but could not get the info (i dont want to buy spitfires). looked on the bosch site but no help, have heard xr8 or xr6 replacement coils will work? who knows please help. i have a R34 2.5 neo!

Edited by STLKHR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/167772-replacement-coilpacks/
Share on other sites

ive heard of people using VN series 2 coils and AU falcon coils with leads to suit

the leads most likely will need to have a boot on the end where it joins the sparkplug (to 'plug' the hole, just like the coil on plug setup now has that wide rubber flange thing)

go to your local Auto1 or repco and they should be able to help you out (specially if you bring your old coil on plug setup)

dont get VN series 1 coils as it is a single big coil pack, where the series 2 is multiple packs

either that or get some splitfires for the VN series 2 as they are about $75 and some decent leads to suit

do a search in the how to section for wasted spark, its a very every well written article with what you need what you can buy and how to do it, read it then you will have all you need to no to be able to do it

ef coilpack=$105

ef top gun 8mm leads=$30

sparky to wire it up=$50-100 max

ignitor=$80

say roughly $300 worst case..

splitfires=$580 odd from memory double the price?not for me

i know which one is better, ef can run longer dwell then splitfires= better burn= more power

will not over heat due to being able to run away from the cylinder head.

only downside is fitment which isnt hard and the splitfires only thing goin for em is that theyre bolt in. ef coilpack from start to finish max 2hrs.. being an rb25neo would prob have to source a ignitor which is hard.

plenty reason to use an alternative

you'd think that if the coilpacks are such a stupid idea that nissan would have picked up on it instead of manufacturing their rb series engines for over 10 years?

i just replaced mine with spitfires, i figure if the originals lasted 10 years, than the new ones will surely last my time

oh well each to theyre own, nissan enginers a motor that works for the best price as mass production, dont think they do it for whats best for the motor, i realise your thinking behind your purchase, think of this the reason coilpacks fail is because of excesive heat. e.g being bolted to the cylinder head then coverd up. ef allows to remotly mount the coilpack and run a longer dwelltime = more power...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...