Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys,

just a quick question to those who have installed these units.

As the manual is in japanese i am not sure but i see diagrams of the boost control soliniod in series with the standard boost solinoid which does not seem right. Had advise to remove the standard and replace with the Apexi which seems simple enough. Yet to try it out but will do thursday i hope.

One more point is it possible to change the reading on the commander from mmhg to bar as a readout.

thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/167896-power-fc-boost-controler/
Share on other sites

Hey mate, I've just installed one last week.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...3&hl=birnie

The pictures aren't showing but i can repost em later when i get home for you.

They show the wiring too which isn't too hard.

Yeah, +ve pressure in bar

-ve in mmhg

That's the same as my mechanical Blitz boost gauge.

Pressure might not have the same physical characteristics in negative pressure and therefor not messured in 'bar' as i believe even the PSI gauges have hhmg as -ve pressure, or vacuum (could be wrong, but once you've got complete vacuum ie space, you can't suck anymore out so it must be approaching a limit with the more vacuum reading you get, but pressure can keep increasing???)

Birnie

The hose with the restrictor???

There is a clear filter if that's what you mean.

I was gong to put that on the sensor hose but it doesn't fit....didn't use it at all.

Anyway....some pics here : http://people.aapt.net.au/~jason1973/Skyline/

LOL i was talking about the hose from the standard boost controler with the restrictor in it ( has yellow band around it ) does that go to the waste gates or is it from the manifold..

Thanks for the pics mate they are a great help.

regards

Edited by tacker

I ditched the old tube and used what came with the unit.

So no restrictor at all.

Also, pressure feed from the intercooler piping went into the 'NO' hole on the new solenoid, and continued out the 'COM' hole which went to the wastgate.

  • 8 months later...

this bloody thing is still not working went to lift boost to 1.2 bar to find it has just been using the actuator spring.

Could the harness from the ecu to the boost control solinoid be damaged, guess i will need to check. Tried to run at .8 bar only to have it go into boost cut no matter what value i entered in the duty cycle.

GRRRRRRR

if you find its going into boost cut no matter what, ie: its spiking way over target boost then check the vac lines etc

if they are backwards it might not control boost at all and just never open, hence unlimited boost, hence it spiking way past target regardless of duty

or the wiring is wrong., its simply ground and positive power, if they are wrong the solenoid wont work

Hi Paul,

Ok what i have done is run a whole new line from the COM port on the solinoid valve over the engine into a tee piece, then to both to both waste gate actuators. I then plugged the old exsisting vac lines to the actuators with a bolt and clamp.

I have then used compressed air to determine which of the exsisting vac lines connected to the original factory boost controller are connected to where, ie before the turbos or after. I then connected the vac line plumbed in after the turbos to the NO port of the solinoid valve, And again plugged the other exsisting line now not used.

The wiring, i used the exsisting ( original nissan ) boost controller harness, and then plugged the new cable from the Apexi solinoid valve into the exsisting plug that was connected to the original nissan boost controller, and therefore should be connected to Power FC through this original harness.

bugga need coffee now after typing so much :-)

There is no spiking as such it sits rock steady on 1.15 bar if i have the boost limit on the hand controller set to 1.2 bar, we proved this time after time on the dyno last weekend. If we removed the vac hose to waste gate actuators and left it open to free air then it would spike, but wouldnt move from 1.15 bar while connected to the COM port on the Apexi solinoid valve. Even if we connected either of the older exsisting lines from the factory boost controller on the NO port it made no difference, hence why i dont think the Apexi solinoid valve is getting a signal from the ECU, or the valve is not functioning when it gets a signal.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, I’ve just finished fitting the timing belt on my RB25, following the standard procedure: rotate the crank twice, release the tensioner, then tighten it down. The belt feels tight, and you can see that clearly in the picture below I’ve heard some people say it’s actually better for the belt to be slightly loose rather than too tight, as excessive tension can lead to snapping. So that’s in the back of my mind. What I’m seeing is this:  • At idle, the belt looks fine.  • But when cranking and especially when revving (around 3–4,000 RPM), there’s a momentary flap/flex or flicker in the belt, which I’ve tried to capture in the video. So my question is — based on what you see, is this slight belt movement something you’d consider normal, or am I just being OCD? Could this amount of movement cause sync issues? Or is it just a harmless bit of flex under load?   from what I know belt flap and flex is expected when crank spins up and pull cam with it Would appreciate any thoughts or similar experiences.     IMG_7656.mov IMG_7657.mov
    • I've replaced the front brakes of my NA to 324 brembos and 350z calipers: i'm going for 225/40-18 up front and 245/35-18 in the back. I have Rays 7.5*19 ET35(225/35) in the front with 5mm spacers otherwise the calipers "lock up/ won't rotate". When i use the calculator i come up with 8*18 ET30 for 225/40...... but not sure i get problems with the calipers. Anyone riding around with 18 inch. that can confirm "that it'll fit"? In the back it's 7.5*9 ET30 (245/30) with the 5mm spacers, but there is no problem with the standard small brakes, so i want to take 8.5*18 ET25 (245/35).
    • Lol.. but then.. always come back to a JDM..
    • Glad to hear. If possible, get your tuner to check air's to make sure everything is still where it should be.
    • The problem with FB/Insta/Reddit etc comments relating to cars is simple. You get to ask a question once, and get one round of replies. For things that can actually be answered in a few lines of text, once, it's fine. After 6 hours, your original question is lost to the void. There are no follow ups, additional questions, anything. No project car is ever such a simple list of questions to ask. You need discussion.
×
×
  • Create New...