Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, just though I’d post up the results of my new tune, just got the turbo high flowed and a boost controller fitted. All the tuning was done by CEF11E on the Autotech Dyno.

Stock engine internals, stock cat, stock dump, stock injectors, GCG High flow RB20 turbo, bigger fuel Pump and 16psi

I'm so happy with the result, and it’s so fun to drive. Puts a nice big grin on my face every time I hit full boost :) .

A very big thanks to Nick for tuning the ECU, Great job man! Big thanks to Autotech, Integra Automotive, GCG and J Racing

post-15611-1179318700_thumb.jpg

post-15611-1179318717_thumb.jpg

Edited by Viper_r32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168957-it%E2%80%99s-tuned-a-ready-to-roll/
Share on other sites

sounds good.. how much did that set you bak?

It was $3000 to get the turbo high flowed including the labour

$220 for Fuel Pump (can’t remember how much for labour)

$850 for the boost controller including fitting

$350 for re-chipping the ECU and tuning

So allot! But worth every cent.

Glad you are happy with the results paul ;)

there is a dip in power as you can see due to the boost controller spiking and then dropping back down, this is due to still having a fairly restrictive (standard front/dump pipe and standard cat) combined with a super efficant.

As you can see boost comes on in very short space of time and comes on hard. the compressor is only just in its efficant operating range at 16psi and there is a lot left in it.

Paul, I think i have found out what the issue with the boost controller is :huh: I will pm you the details...

We settled with 200rwkw with 12:1 afr's due to still running stock injectors. With a set of GTR's and new front pipe and a cat 220~240 would be realistic

Good figures. Still think you should have gone with one of Slides high flows for about a 1/3 of the price ;)

Honestly I considered it, but I’ve always been the kind of person who believes in “you get what you pay for”. I have always preferred to pay more money for something that I know 100% will do the job I want it to. But by no means dose that mean that one of Slides high flows would not have been sufficient, but as a personal preference I preferred to go Ball bearing instead of Bush and have it done company that has a really good reputation. As the turbo itself only cost $1900 to be high flowed the rest was all Integra’s labor.

Nice work mate. Mine was on the dyno on Saturday and made ~150rwkw, and I know that's fun on the track. You must be loving it.

Absolutely, Nick suggested I take it easy in the beginning to get used to the power. But honestly it didn’t take that long before I was leaving the throttle open on the straightaways. Although I have to admit I was changing gear a 5000rpm as it’s still a little scary to take up to 6000 but a lot of fun.

Hey, Nice effort - 200rwkw is quite respectable from an RB20, Go the R32's!

Can I ask what kind of boost controller youre using?

Ive currently got 230rwkw from mine but all I need is a boost controller to make 260 - 270, Im looking into getting something electronic for under $1000, but I cant decide what to get.

Also $1900 seems like allot of money for a high flow turbo, I bought a GT30 / 71R ball bearing turbo from GCG - thats a 500hp turbo for $1780.

the good thing with a high flow is that it will just bolt back into place no f**king around changing lines or manifolds, or custom piping!!!

The only things that I had to change were the oil and water lines (which came with the turbo) put a right angle silicone bend on the compressor and a 10mm spacer on the manifold (because the turbo so big), thats it.

Anyone who has some mechanical ability could do it.

A lot of people will disagree with me here.

but in terms of boost stability and simplicity i will allways recomend a turbotech boost controller. mine holds 18psi as a dead flat line...day in and out. no electronic parts to fail, be stolen or set.

they cost almost nothing and if you are after a set and forget controller they are simply the best.

Once you start looking at larger capacity engines that spool turbos quickly an electronic item is good to allow boost delivery to be more linear and not come on like a bomb,

there are a lot of excellent boost controllers out there but do not dismiss the turbotech. it is a good simple invention and will do just as good at holding boost at a flat line.

if you want a high and low boost setting these are not for you.

I had a profcb in my car and removed it and replaced it with a turbotech and will never go back to an electronic item :unsure:

Just some food for thought :D

Can I ask what kind of boost controller youre using?

Ive currently got 230rwkw from mine but all I need is a boost controller to make 260 - 270, Im looking into getting something electronic for under $1000, but I cant decide what to get.

Apexi AVC-R Limited Edition. I originaly purchesed the standered one form Jerry at J Racing. but then Jerry went to fit it, and it turned out to be faulty. So Jerry phoned up Apexi to ask for a replacement, but they dident have any of the standered ones in stock. they said they had a limited ed virsion but it was like $180 more. Jerry told them that that wasent aceptable as it was a faulty bran new item, and he needed a replacement straight away. so they gave me the Limited ED version for the same price and sent it over night. it was fited the folowing morning.

Edited by Viper_r32
the good thing with a high flow is that it will just bolt back into place no f**king around changing lines or manifolds, or custom piping!!!

that was the main reason i chose to go with a high flow. so if people look under the hood it all looks stock. no probs with rego inspection, police or anything else

that was the main reason i chose to go with a high flow. so if people look under the hood it all looks stock. no probs with rego inspection, police or anything else

Mine is still a low mount using the standard manifold, the only difference you can see is that it doesnt have the heat sheild anymore and theres a blue silicone hose where the metal right angle used to be (see picture).

It passed ACT rego inspection no problems at all, they didnt even notice.

I would love to get an AVCR-II but they are really expensive, do you think they're worth it?

post-17958-1179444325_thumb.jpg

A lot of people will disagree with me here.

but in terms of boost stability and simplicity i will allways recomend a turbotech boost controller. mine holds 18psi as a dead flat line...day in and out. no electronic parts to fail, be stolen or set.

they cost almost nothing and if you are after a set and forget controller they are simply the best.

Once you start looking at larger capacity engines that spool turbos quickly an electronic item is good to allow boost delivery to be more linear and not come on like a bomb,

there are a lot of excellent boost controllers out there but do not dismiss the turbotech. it is a good simple invention and will do just as good at holding boost at a flat line.

if you want a high and low boost setting these are not for you.

I had a profcb in my car and removed it and replaced it with a turbotech and will never go back to an electronic item >_<

Just some food for thought :wave:

So how do I get and how much is one of these Turbotech controllers?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Didnt realise RB's had more then 1 head.
    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
×
×
  • Create New...