Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So running high boost is living in the past now, well let's see how my new old style TO4Z goes with 25+psi rammed down its guts, I think I'm going to enjoy living in the past.

On topic, my old stock turbo ran at 14lb for 12months, when it was pulled off (pulled off he he) it was fine, just luck or regular servicing ? Maybe a bit of both, I was expecting it to blow so I upgraded to a China spec, it was good for a while but hit its limit of around 300, now I'm getting a T series which should keep me happy once some lbs has been thrown at it.

I know boost needs to go down.. Not my question..

I'm curious as to why considering Other people have had no dramas at 10 without a tune..

An curious to why after putting an exhaust on would it have effected my boost?

I know boost needs to go down.. Not my question..

I'm curious as to why considering Other people have had no dramas at 10 without a tune..

An curious to why after putting an exhaust on would it have effected my boost?

PHYSICS, letting your exhaust flow will reduce backpressure thus letting your turbo spool more freely.

More boost=you need a smaller gap on your plugs, if its coughing at high rpm try reducing the gap to .9 and see if that helps, maybe you need more fuel ?, take it to a tuner and check it out, its the only safe way.

How does the exhaust affect the actuator tho? That's what I'm trying to figure out.. Plugs have been gapped. Changing coils an ebc next week then I will be sending it in for a chip I'm sure this will solve the problem :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It might be worth having a good look at the chassis behind the bumper then; most people prefer the series 2 look so it might have been changed to cheaper parts as part of an earlier repair
    • The car itself a series 2. I was just curious about the headlights and just wanted to confirm that they were series 1. Good to know the rest of the front end is series 1. It’ll be easier for me to find parts on the aftermarket side of things lol
    • If you've wired up the coils & injectors properly, & have the neo CAS loom for the trigger, it should all work. The VCT works the same way so just different plugs between s1 & neo. Assuming DBW if no IAC. Don't bother with the stock boost solenoid with g4x.
    • THERE IS NO IAT SENSOR ON ANY SINGLE TURBO RB. And the one on an RB26 is not for "engine control" - it's really too big and too slow and is only used for over-temp alarming (as far as I can tell). Anyway, you don't have one. You want/need one for the Link, then you need to buy one, find a spot for it, and wire it in. You do know that the stock boost solenoid is not capable of "control", right? It is merely on or off, for the low boost (5 psi) and high boost (7psi), which the ECU enforces mostly based on gear. The stock solenoid is not for PWM control and is not plumbed up in a way to provide it. If you want to control boost properly, then you need a proper MAC valve. And yes, you can wire either of them direct to the ECU. Well, I assume you can - I don't know what the boost solenoid pins on the plug and play Link are capable of. They really should be as capable as any normal Link - but seeing as it is plg and play, it might be limited to stock functionality. Read the doco.   You really do just want to plug stuff together without understanding how it works, right? I can't help you there. I don't know the plug types or pinning on half the stuff you're asking about. If I had to do it I would sit down with the wiring diagrams, the car/looms and a multimeter and work out what is what.
    • Light should be a pressure switch, not a sensor.
×
×
  • Create New...