Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys....i have a r33 series 1 skyline and experiencing some problems with power on my car...i had it dynoed and i was pulling 101rwkw on stock boost with a full Greddy/Trust exhaust system and a K&N pod filter......they couldnt find the problem from just a power run....and also when the car is idling it sounds like it wants to stall, revs are generally about 400-500rpm on idle.....is that bad?

also has anyone had this problem before if so how did you fix it? i have been told a few things from the mechanics but they are not that sure so if anyone can help it would be good thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169726-lil-bit-of-help-plz/
Share on other sites

for a boosted ( I presume its an rb25det ) motor thats not much horsepower!

I wonder if your catalytic converter is blocked?

easiest way of checking that is just to disconnect the rest of the exhaust from the turbo/dump pipe and see if it does heaps more power

while a blocked cat will reduce hp its not going to make it idle at 400-500rpm. Does it sound like a wrx when driving? Have you had a compression test done? How many km's has the motor done? Any engine lights on? What does it drive like?

First thing i would give it a compression test and see what the numbers are, the mechanic should be able to do it in 10mins if he knows what he is doing.

I hope its just something simple like a spark plug dead, but it could be a broken piston...

my daily driven 33 series 1 has cat back, pod filter, front mount and is running 14psi and idles at 900 every day... how much did your dyno tune cost? they should've done compression test and requested to change the plugs before they even pulled a power run??

So far i have gone and seen a couple of mechanics in the past few days.....i have been told that i might have a vaccum leak somewhere, spark plugs, cat is blocked/stuffed, manifold and turbo gaskets are blown....

so since then i have changed the spark plugs....makes no difference...most of the them told me that its a vaccum leak plus the gaskets are gone....its making a ticking noice from near the manifold and turbo....apparently the turbo is making boost....the compression seems to be fine and all.....i am going to get my vacumm lines replaced and gaskets replaced and see if that makes any difference....i have booked it into a garage but it has a 2-3 mnths waiting list so i am not planning to drive it for a sometime lol.....

with the car idling so low could that be a timming related problem....umm the motor has 130,000kz on it and i have had it when the it had 85,000kz on it....since then i have replaced my timming belt and the usual plus it gets serviced on the due dates or once certain kz have reached on the clock.....

Busted exhaust manifold gasket as smurf80 says is more than likely the problem.

If you're in the market for a hi-flow cat check out the group buy in my signature, you'll have a hard time finding a cheaper hi flow metal cat.

i will keep that in mind when i have the cash to buy a high flow cat....with straight through pipes does it chuck out flames and will it also flame with the high flow cat.....also the workshop where i am getting my gaskets fixed are going to do the pressure test before they do anything or before they even dyno it.....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
×
×
  • Create New...