Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys and Girls, I need some advice, A mate has a blown head gasket on an R33 GTS-t whats the best thing to do?? besides the obevious is there a cheaper solution?? He's had quotes around the $3500 - $5500 if the head is bent!! Has anyone had this done before with a better quote?? Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance James.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169844-blown-head-gasket-need-advise/
Share on other sites

if you can remove and reinstall it yourself i would think about $400-$500 to replace the gasket and have the head decked and cleaned.

obviously that doesnt cover what ever it was that caused the fault in the first place.

headgaskets aren't that hard. time consuming but not hard. if he did it himself and the head was fine he could get away for less than $200 for a vrs kit.

maybe do it over a few days with a mate or two to help? pay them in beer and get maggot at night ha.

head gaskets are not $5000 jobs. i spoke to a mechanic, he said they sometimes cost $500 (simpler car tho). he charged $1200 i know for a headgasket job on a falcon, along with fixing up other crap. i can put u onto him but he's south syd. if your west then it probably be 1hr drive. but a very honest good mechanic

comparison of DIY. for $5500 i obtained a entirely forged bottom end, got head cleaned up, bought 1000 tools (inc. engine hoist), swapped everything over and got the car dyno tuned. i still would have had a bit of cash at the end. DIY ftw

headgaskets aren't that hard. time consuming but not hard. if he did it himself and the head was fine he could get away for less than $200 for a vrs kit.

maybe do it over a few days with a mate or two to help? pay them in beer and get maggot at night ha.

head gaskets are not $5000 jobs. i spoke to a mechanic, he said they sometimes cost $500 (simpler car tho). he charged $1200 i know for a headgasket job on a falcon, along with fixing up other crap. i can put u onto him but he's south syd. if your west then it probably be 1hr drive. but a very honest good mechanic

comparison of DIY. for $5500 i obtained a entirely forged bottom end, got head cleaned up, bought 1000 tools (inc. engine hoist), swapped everything over and got the car dyno tuned. i still would have had a bit of cash at the end. DIY ftw

hahahhaahahahaha $200

your forgetting a few major things

like why did the head gasket blow

u will also need a set of head bolts (as u cant reuse the old ones as nissan head bolts are torque to yeld bolts)

u need to head the head checked out (ie acid dipped ,new valve guides ,skim the head ,re-seat the valves etc)

other thing that might be needed

timing belt

idler and tensioner bearings

water pump

coolant

oil

oil filter

u cant compair the price of a head gasket repair on a falcon to a r33 skyline as a falcon dont have half the shit u have to pull off compaired to a skyline

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You’ll be very upset when you bust that too not to mention the gearing totally sucks. Don’t do it.
    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
×
×
  • Create New...