Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

could possibly have AFM problem - id replace the CAS first though, particularly if ur AFM readings were ok/not spiking etc.

then clear fault codes and see if afm code returns

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I'll give that ago after i've got the new CAS in. I didn't notice anything out of the ordinary with the AFM readings so hopefully the fault code won't come back. If it does then i might have to fast track my Z32 AFM purchase :thumbsup: Thanks for everyones help, especially because it is in someone else's topic! Sorry WogsRus!!!

Cheers

Stricko

Hay guys, i think it might be my stock fuel pressure reg.

Ages ago, when i got the aftermarket malpasi one, for some reason i could not run just the malpasi one, it would exibit thesame issues as it does at the moment, surging ect.

The solution was to install the stock one in series with the malpasi one and the symptoms disapeared. SOOO it looks like i might need to get a new one to test.

HOWEVER the car starts great now, no idea what happend. LOL.

WELLLLLLL

it's not the fuel reg at all, tried one of a running car, BUGGGAA, back to the drawing board.

I wander if it is possible for my cam belt to slip a toth, i swear that last night i herd it backfire through the intake, is that possible and if so what would couse this.

The car is bad, it's basicaly stops between 2500-3500 rpm on boost.

Going to do more logs this afternoon on the way home.

Any more ideas guys.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...