Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

clean with a wire brush and then use metho to clean off any residual dust. it shoudl stick then but at the same time, if there was any trace of water in the spray can when it was manufacteured it would bead up to.

try some brake and parts cleaner from an auto store

... that sounds like a good idea.

When I did mine, i used a wire brush and detergent, and scrubbed for a long time. That worked ok.

If i was to do them again, i'd try some brake cleaner, wire brush, and then finish up with some Prepsol/Wax&Grease remover.

Read the paint can to see if a primer is needed.

With the Duplicolour stuff, i used a Duplicolor metallic primer.

Edited by Trav33

you also more than likely have built up residue from tyre shine stuff over time which does not mix well with paint, I sand blasted mine which is overkill but I had them apart at the time. just give them a super good clean and you will be fine

Morning all,

I had my wheels off recently to paint the calippers on my car. I bought the proper calipper spray but when i sprayed it on it beaded and wouldnt stick. Do i need to prime the caliper or something????

Cheers!adam

As said you need to do more prep work before applying paint, have a look at Paul's DIY thread :O

i just did mine yesterday..came up perfect..

just clean the shit outta ur calipers..

<a href="http://imageshack.us"><img src="http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/9396/calipers001tx8.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosted by ImageShack.us" /></a>

<a href="http://imageshack.us"><img src="http://img300.imageshack.us/img300/1608/calipers002uc9.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosted by ImageShack.us" /></a>

<a href="http://imageshack.us"><img src="http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/6906/calipers003hb3.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosted by ImageShack.us" /></a>

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
    • Yes it is ATF. I quote @Duncan "it takes a good synthentic auto trans fluid like Castrol Transmax Z" It's not a diff. It's a transfer case. Totally different thing. Yes, fluid will come out the sender hole. No you do not really need to drain it. Just pull the old, quickly poke the new, clean up and top up. But realistically, you should probably take the opportunity to change it anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...