Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok i am looking at getting a safc! will these be good to help tune my car? i have herd there a good little device to sorta substitue the pfc!?

also anyone know how to swap a rb20t with a rb25t on a rb20det? as i have one to do!??

and how long does everyone warm there cars up for?

cheers adrian

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/170469-looking-for-some-ideas/
Share on other sites

I've got a SAFC II on my car, they're perfect if your running a little bit extra boost and dont plan on making big power. Before I got mine I was running 12psi with a really rich tune making 155rwkw, after SAFC got 170rwkw just by leaning it out also saved on fuel big time.

As for changing turbos they both use the same oil lines so its a straight swap may need to modify the dump pipe tho

And for warming up my car I let it run for about 30 sec then drive without going on boost until the temp gauge is up

hope that helps

ok i am looking at getting a safc! will these be good to help tune my car? i have herd there a good little device to sorta substitue the pfc!?

also anyone know how to swap a rb20t with a rb25t on a rb20det? as i have one to do!??

and how long does everyone warm there cars up for?

cheers adrian

This was answered before...u need to work out your future plans for mods on the car. SAfc is a piggy back and will only let u adjust so much.

If u want more power later, u will have to sell it and buy a pfc then. Its not a substitute at all.

Tirbo should be straight swap.

Warm up the car as Tuffr32 said.

R32 remap can be done by Jeff from The Speed Lab. ns.com users all rave about him, have no personal experience. He also did a big thread on there about it in the Forced Performance section. Give him a try, often can work out cheaper and better than an SAFC on the 32's I believe.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
    • Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
    • 75% complete. Will now need to get a new axle with 5x114.3 hubs and then figure out how to customize some mudguards for it once the wheels are on.
    • Trailer prep is underway... Lined up the wheel to get a rough indication of how it would sit Then removed all the bits (as far as possible) and gave the frame a light sand and quick lick of paint   Then added some carpet
    • okay, so I figured this out, removed needles and reinstalled after swapping the gauge face on my triple gauge for my ER34, all work and look good. I tried to do the same for the main cluster, but the main cluster gauge faces are dished, the replacement gauge face are flat, so due to the dish in the org face ,mounting backing plate (clear) and depth of the needle, the flat gauge face will not work. I notice that R34 gtr gauges are flat, appears to be different clear backing plate that aren't dished. are these available, or what have others done to install flat gauge faces?
×
×
  • Create New...