Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 126
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yes option on thicker core which I would need to confirm as at home now but 25 mm thicker so end up tanks are 90m thick extra $100 at most. Not all bars and reinforcements will need triming to fit other than GTR or 400R Bars then only small if any. If fitting yourself you will need a 3 inch holesaw to cut through the inner skirt and a grinder or better still wafer cutter and air hacksaw. When I first mentioned it to Blitz and others it all happened very fast and super busy at UAS and was asked what about the price son etc. I came up with the price knowing I could l do this as just over cost. I was trying to liase with Mick who does nice work but not the best with comunication and other. I have confirmed if getting volume then can do better so if get 5 kits can do for $100 off again and if 10 a further $60. It would have been not good to shoot too low then UAS not be happy about it or worst still losing money but rather make better which was going to do a suprise but in light of the I can get this and that for $ thought to introduce now. Also must compare apples with apples these are quality made polished, alloy pipes not to be compared with stainless or worse still mild steel. Alloy is better as lighter, dissapates the heat better and looks good. Also the shiny quality silicone hoses used. We have also improved and refined the jig to include better braket and only one peice in engine bay etc. Also re fittment if done by my mechs it is quality work, optional black powder coated mesh similar design to GTR's and carefully marked and cut and linished smooth, with lining where it comes through the inner skirt etc. Not just shoe horned in as we have seen elsewhere and things loaded up and rubbing etc. Note my enthusiast mechs are both thorough and neat and tidy and also have fitted many of them so they know where to cut etc.

Yes can do cooler only depends on thickness at a special price.

OK I just checked and noticed that the reply post I thought I put up to simplify and clarify price somehow got lost in internet black hole.

So here it is and to keep it simple.

5 or more will do $1300 supply only and extra $100 for those who want the 25m thicker although I think overkill, depending on how serious the engine and tubo is. Plus fitting which if thicker a bit more cutting or trimming but will do same price if we are fitting. Those interstate we will also do free packing freight and insurance.

PS At the track day at Eastern Creek on Monday long weekend just gone I noticed a lot of the GTS-T's still have those small heat exchange little aftercoolers and NEED to get FMIC. Or appologise to your motor next time out and whatch those fast zeds go past again. He He.

Carlo reading this??

broken

not from here

Registered: Jun 2002

Location: NSW South Coast

Car: R32 GTS-t

"

i'll take one to fit a r32.

how long to they take to make 'em? "

Only a week or so once we get to 5 ordered which should be fairly quick.

90mm size tanks core and top and bottom plate and brakets to suit R33 so no pipes or hoses $1050.

If it's possible, could we have a set end date for this group buy? I'd utterly love to hand over the cash now, but the reality is, I won't have the cash for 6 weeks or so. I don't mind if I miss out, but if I know the end date, then I know if I have to live on bread and two minute noodles for a while, while I get the cash together. :P

Ok, extreemly interested. have the $, been looking for a good kit for a while.

IS this correct, 600x300x90, all alloy piping & silicon hoses for $1550 and you guys send it to me free in Brisbane???? or i pay the $70.00 for frieght/insruance?

my email, [email protected]

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...