Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Bl4ck32: I hope there isn't a charge for freight. Earlier in this thread it said that freight was free. Maybe UAS can confirm this....it was the BIG selling point for me.

You could probably do a direct deposit to UAS so just ask them - cheaper than money order.

Not sure on deliveries...I'm just a customer. I plan to pay off the total cost around the 24th July when I get paid. I don't mind if it takes a week or two afterwards to get it delivered.

  • Replies 126
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Free freight Australia wide and piping is alloy and 2 .5 inch, yes can get alloy pipes HPC coated in engine bay but have to get a price but expect about $100 or more extra.Brakets top and bottom of cooler for direct fit. If fitting yourself it does requir reo to be trimmed back a fair bit and front bar also depend on which type.

Group price for kit remains until end of the July. Hop on or miss out.

Sorry Richie. This deal is only for the Skyline kits. Will be doing something to the same effect at a later stage one on of the silvia/180 forums.

Hope I did'nt spoil your day :)

Hmm, nah it ok i am tough..:)

Well when you want to do something for the silvia forums let me know :D

Am a member of SliviaWa and i reckon that there would be some keen people there...

Not much in the way of cheaper good quality kits that i have found over here....

Boosted Zed - im in for sure. Just gotta sort out me engine - timing belt let go, so i might be up for rebuild or new engine.

I'll pay deposit in fortnight or so, funds permitting, then the rest by the last week of July. I'll have to ring u to get details for direct depost etc.

Hey boys, any chance you can supply me with black hoses instead of blue ? I can always spray them if I have to...but if its all the same to you...I'd love black ones instead...

Puppaduck--Yes can supply with black silicon hose no probs. Specify on your order or will end up coming with 'default blue'.

Black or Blue silicon hose only guys.

I'm definitely interested but do you know if it will fit behind stock front bar (not M-spec) or should I be looking for a front bar as well? Also can you kepp the stock airbox or do you have to go a pod?

Thanks

Will fit behind any bar but they will all need cutting and modification. Not hard, just need to take your time. On off on off. Trial and error. Obviously a bar with a large mouth to supply air to the cooler core is better than one that covers it up but its all about the $$$. Check our website out for a few different styles if you interested.

Stock airbox is cool (sometimes better as your not sucking hot air from the engine bay as you can do with a pod filter). A pod filter will breath better in most cases (and sound wicked also) but needs to be shielded from the engine bay via a box or petition. See the website for pics and details.

321 go, or boosted zed, Im gunna order the kit from me car.

Heres the deal, I gots the money before the end of the month, but its like the 31st, the last day to pay off the kit, sooo, if I pay the deposit b4, then the balance on the 31st is this ok?

Im gunna do a direct deposit, so if I fax the receipt or whatever on the 31st (during the day) I'm assuming you would know the balance has been paid?

I'm very interested in the kit, but would this be an overkill for a fairly stock R33 (3"dump/exhaust & airintake).

Taking into account I dont plan any major upgrades like Turbo or ECU... Probably just an S-AFC?

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...