Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok...have done some searches but have not found what I have been looking for.

Heard the other day(fiction or truth) that there is a Muffler that can fit a GTR33...3 inch in and out.

Made ..was told...for WRXWorld rally cars to make then quiter.

It is hand made and has a body like a 80Litre bucket.

Can any point me in the right direction...or lead me to custom muffler maker.

Cheers...Thanks in advance Tekin

OH...I need one cause I wake the whole neighbourhood up in the morning..including my kids..LOL

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171052-need-help-with-a-hot-dog/
Share on other sites

Thanks that Xforce electronic butterfly looks good...but it is not legal...at least I don't think so.

Currently I have DumpsHKS,Cat 3",Resinator 3" and 1 foot long(LOL),Hot Dog 3 inch.

Anyone else who knows about this Muffler?

Thanks for the replies guys.

Cheers

Tekin

:whistling:

Anyone with some names???????

Bloody exhausts - I went through this and it was an expensive exercise. Played with the originally fitted 3'' sys - put in the biggest centre muffler I could and no good. Then decided to fit a well recommended jap exhaust hks hi power silent. Very loud. Now have got a trust power extreme 2 which is ok but I'm not sure about how well it flows - it's tricky playing with exhausts - everyone has their own opinion but at the end of the day it also depends on what sort of turbo you are running as I found fitting my hks unit made the exhaust so much louder.

Good luck!

Jeez, you guys really have it bad down under. In my country its a pro if you have the loudest exhaust on your car. Its gotten so bad that NA toyota carina and corrola's decide to fit a cannon and produce horrible exhaust notes. for my car i employ a full 4" system with no cat but double resonators and a 5.5" cannon in the rear. as long as the car doesnt reach boost its quite silent, exept for those cars with too sensitive shock sensors :P. but the moment the car reaches full boost and the 2.5" screamer comes in to play, it all over a normal conversation can not take place, but it still turns heads

Ok...have done some searches but have not found what I have been looking for.

Hey,

I have a friend that can do what you want.

He is expensive, and may not want to do your job if you have no clear

goals or expectations.

Hint: you need to have a really good idea about what you want to achieve;

you need to have realistic expectations and goals; and you need to be able to afford it.

A custom stainless muffler in the dimensions of your choosing will probably set

you back in the order of $400-500 (my guesstimate, based on how long it takes

to make one and his hourly rate). You can fit a _really big_ muffler on an R32 at the back :P

Highlander Exhaust, 02 48712949. Ask for Darren, and ask for a quote. He has

made them for GTRs before (got mine through noise testing).

Regards,

Saliya

best to take it to a good exhaust shop and get them to build a centre muffler for you.

Daalder in Box Hill used to do a quiet one, but I think the guy has moved somewhere else

No room...I have been.......and don't want it to drop low...

In fact that is where I was told about this WRX muffler......

Ok, looks like I am ringing around today

Bloody exhausts - I went through this and it was an expensive exercise. Played with the originally fitted 3'' sys - put in the biggest centre muffler I could and no good. Then decided to fit a well recommended jap exhaust hks hi power silent. Very loud. Now have got a trust power extreme 2 which is ok but I'm not sure about how well it flows - it's tricky playing with exhausts - everyone has their own opinion but at the end of the day it also depends on what sort of turbo you are running as I found fitting my hks unit made the exhaust so much louder.

Good luck!

I have a power extreme 2 aswell and i think the noise level is quite resonable.. i certainly hear everyone elses aftermarkets exhausts louder than mine.

As for how well it flows. I have replaced the dump pipe with a 3" split as well as a higher flowing cat and from a stock engine increased my power by around 20-25rwkw (afer exhaust installed dynoed at 185rwkw, and i believe a standard gtst is about 160 at the wheels)

having a catback can certainly change the note and noise level but isnt going to increase performance to much if its choked as it leaves the turbo & wastegate

OK...have got in contact with an exhaust manufacturer in Melton.

Am going to see them some time soon.....they will measure up the area I have to play with.

Design what I want......manufacture and install it.......

Will keep you all posted.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...