Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I recently cleaned my out while i was putting on a new bumper.

I just used a can engine decreaser (<$3NZ).

Then used detergent, followed by a very good rinse.

And finally a rinse with meths.

Although it looked clean(ish) when i first looked into it, alot black stuff came out.

But i guess it wasnt too bad considering it hasnt been cleaned for 13yrs.

And yeah, can you let us know how well it fits, as i m also looking at upgrading to an R34 SMIC.

it fited perfectly for me. its longer in height so the inner guard doesnt go in like it should, but it still goes in.

mmmmmmmmmm....R34 IC into R33...sounds like a nice little upgrade!

Wouldn't mind learning a little more about this.....along with expected/real outcomes???

Regards,

Superspit.

Be careful with degreaser.. Some eats alum.

I use petrol. I seal up one end with a few plastic freezer bags + a few rubber bands. Pour the petrol in one end.. shake it around a little and repeat the process until the petrol comes out clean.

You can use shellite to clean it out as it evaporates and will leave no residue.

Shelite is some real nasty shit. Had a nasty experience with shelite.

I just don't get what makes that stuff so potent. I haven't researched the chemical structure etc, i'm not that desparate to know. haha. I mean sure, you can light petrol, kero etc on fire. They burn very easily, and they're dangerous. But shelite. Man. I had a friend try and start one of those wood barbies at the natio park using shelite. He thought it would be like petty. covered the wood in shelit, and lit it using a match. Man, wasn't pretty.

So does shelite not leave residue? petrol must be ok, considering the car eats it normally. that's why I use it anyways.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...