Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have traced the wire from an aftermarket 3-stage switch which is mounted on my dash beside the rear window demister, which leads all the way back to the rear left boot compartment, beside where a 6-stacker could usually be mounted. Havent had the opportunity to pull off the boot lining to look at what it actually goes to, but just thought i would ask to see what is actually in there?? Anyone have any ideas?

there looks to be two or three different components in there?? IDEAS

Cheers,

Tim

When you say "left" do you mean drivers or passengers side?

Because on the passengers side, in the boot compartment, well hidden under a butt load of stuff is the ATESSA Controller ECU, which controls the AWD..... might be a switch to put into RWD? Which is not recommended either. Do a search to find out why :rofl:

Nah no TV, dot think the Autech ever got a TV did it? will get some pics, but i'm pretty sure it would be something to do with the Atessa......i have tried switching the switch and seeing if it effects the torque gauge on the dash but it seems to be same in every mode......??

Managed to pull the boot lining out today and found where the lead went.....it went to small silver box behind the Attessa System. The reason the switch was not working before was becuase it had come loose from the connection so i reconnected it, all working now.

Went for a quick burn and just from the torque split guage, it seems that with it one position, there is minimal torque to the front wheels (but these is some, NOT RWD) middle setting is as per normal attessa control, and then top position is heaps more front torque and results in a lot of chatter when taking off quickly when the front wheels are struggling for grip.

I guess that i would be much better off just leaving it in normal position, to make sure i dont end up with any problems associated with driving in RWD mode??

Yeap, looks like you have an atessa controller installed, but as with the R33/R34 atessa, evenwith it turned off, there is still some torque which is transfered to the front. Leaving it off will eventually result in a costly gearbox rebuild as it'll burn out the clutch packs, or so I have read.

Yeap - but it will stuff the transfer case, not the gearbox which is worse because the auto is fairly common whaereas the transfer box isn't.

Incidently I recently found out something interesting about the auto - it has normal bands for 1st and 2nd, but runs wet clutches for 3rd and 4th (OD)

So i;ve been doing a bit more investigating into the effects of hte switch, It seems that no matter what setting i have the switch in, there is the same levels show on the torgue Guage. WHen i switched the attessa to minimal front torque, i almost spun the car around a corner ie no front grip, ut the guage still showed nearly 50 Kg/cm of torque. I asssume the guage is rigged up somewhere before the attessa system takes over? any idea?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...