Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Putting my GTR back up for sale, this is not some 89 model japbuilt poor condition R32. Clean white R32 GTR – late 1993 model, good condition, interior perfect etc.

83'xxxKM's - engine built @ 79'xxx

Location: Toowoomba - QLD(just over an hour from Brisbane)

Email: [email protected]

Phone: 0424529457

Bit of a list I put together…

Handling:

Ohlins coilovers

Whiteline rear sway bar

Hicas lockbar

Nolethane bushes front & rear

Whiteline front swaybar

Aftermarket castor rods

Strut bar

Slotted DBA rotors front & rear.

Braided front & rear brake lines

Japanese rims with Federal 595SS rubber

Engine:

Oil Control:

• Tomei restrictor

• External oil return from rear of cylinder head to sump

• Heads match ported

• Oil gallieries 20% larger

• Baffle in cam covers

• Tomei sump baffle

Block machined & chemically cleaned

Shotpeaned rods

Tomei brake cylinder stopper

Titanium split dump pipes

Trust exhaust

R33 GTR crank

N1 oil pump

ACL bearings

Tomei oversized pistons

Tomei gaskets

Tomei Pon cams & gears

Tomei timing belt

New harmonic ballancer

N1 water pump

All new belts

HKS2530 turbo’s

HKS IC pipeing kit

100mm thick Trust front mount intercooler

Additional PWR external oil cooler + GREX oil filter relocation kit. Earls braided lines & fittings.

Modified 75mm PWR alloy radiator

Custom recycling catch-can

Bosh 044 fuel pump

600cc Injectors

Aftermarket clutch

Blitz Sus pod air filters.

Clear cam cover

Bonnet pins

Interior & electronics:

Aftermarket mafless ECU

Turbotimer

HKS Electronic boost controller

Omori gauges(Oil temp & pressure, water temp)

HKS boost gauge

Tacho with shiftlight.

Penlight for low oil press warning

Short shifter

Driver & passenger genuine Recaro SR3 reclinable bucket seats including genuine recaro rails.

RPM race gear driver & passenger harness’s

Other stuff:

Genuine Momo steering wheel

Razo shift knob

Nismo fuel cap

Razo pedals

New Sony headunit

No expense spared, oil(Motul 300v Competition) & filters changed every 3000KM’s. Motul RBF600 brake fluid.

Car will not disappoint, pleasure to drive have ensured all mods done right so no problems with defects etc.

$29'900 Negotiable

post-10131-1181195960_thumb.jpg

post-10131-1181195970_thumb.jpg

post-10131-1181195982_thumb.jpg

post-10131-1181195990_thumb.jpg

Edited by Minko
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171819-built-r32-gtr/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...