Jump to content
SAU Community

Help Car Wont Start

Kurtis

By Kurtis,
in Queensland

 Share

Recommended Posts

J-Boy Mentor

J-Boy

Posted
Posted

Sounds like a dead battery, try jumpstarting it with at least 400amp jump cables or jumpstarter or pushstart, last time we tried 200amp cables and it wasn't good enuff as it was losing charge thru too much heat. So far, some of the common problems ive come across fer not being able to start a car are either battery, alternator, ignition plug(somehow my ignition plug came off on my previous r33), dead map sensor etc.

markimak Grand Master

markimak

Posted
Posted

ok ur lights work..?

how u knw ther is spark..?

i would guess it would take more to power the spark then the injectors..

lights on.. see if it stays on..

u cant roll start it..?

if u can. get a multimeter on it and check the alternator charge rate.. wait its an RB so have fun with that.

get the multi onto the battery .

if its still running turn ur lights on and check the charge rates with lights on it should jump up.. if it drops then its ur alternator.. :P

Kobe 2007 Collaborator

Kobe 2007

Posted
Posted (edited)
ok ur lights work..?

how u knw ther is spark..?

i would guess it would take more to power the spark then the injectors..

lights on.. see if it stays on..

u cant roll start it..?

if u can. get a multimeter on it and check the alternator charge rate.. wait its an RB so have fun with that.

get the multi onto the battery .

if its still running turn ur lights on and check the charge rates with lights on it should jump up.. if it drops then its ur alternator.. ;)

I went to turn my car on last week and it wouldnt.

Changed the batteries and the lights came on in the car, however when i turn the ignition, all i get is like a clicking sound... and the car doesnt start.

Someone help me out to what it could be?

Cheers.

Edited by Kobe 2007
markimak Grand Master

markimak

Posted
Posted

that my friend is ur starter motor.. click click yo.. check ur rate going into ur starter if u can.. not too hard on RBs.. using a multi meter then.. if its 12.3v it is gonnaneed a starter motor over haul... i can pull it out.. and from memory its around 150 to get it over hauled.. a second hand SM will be around $100 from all jap..

if u need a hand let me knw..

Kobe 2007 Collaborator

Kobe 2007

Posted
Posted
that my friend is ur starter motor.. click click yo.. check ur rate going into ur starter if u can.. not too hard on RBs.. using a multi meter then.. if its 12.3v it is gonnaneed a starter motor over haul... i can pull it out.. and from memory its around 150 to get it over hauled.. a second hand SM will be around $100 from all jap..

if u need a hand let me knw..

thats just great. thanks mate.

Col-GTSX Grand Master

Col-GTSX

Posted
Posted

The "click click click" from the starter can also be because of a dead or low battery...

If the battery is ok then Id be looking at voltage drop first before ripping out the starter...

Easy way to test this is a directlly connect the starter via jumper leads to the battery and by pass the factory wiring.

(sorta like hot wiring the starter, then trip the solinoid with a piece of wire to make it fire)

Another possibility which is most common, you will find that the battery is not holding charge well and may have dropped a cell, how old is your battery??? The voltage may read 12volts when you check it with a multi meter before cranking, but what does that voltage drop to when you hit the key??? Its probablly dropping to lower than 9 volts which will cause the starter to just click... Low voltage = clicking noise...

Try jump starting it to test this theory, but connect the car to another cr and let it just charge for 2-3 minutes before trying as if the battery has dropped a cell then you will not get a result straight away, also have the jumping car running during this waiting time...

markimak Grand Master

markimak

Posted
Posted

he said the battery was switched over.. but yes try it my way with checking the flow into the started located drivers side of gearbox.. ther is ablack boot pull that off and stick the multimeter onto ther.. and hope u get 12.1-12.8v thats a good range i think... if its good.. roll start her and check charge rate..

Kobe 2007 Collaborator

Kobe 2007

Posted
Posted
he said the battery was switched over.. but yes try it my way with checking the flow into the started located drivers side of gearbox.. ther is ablack boot pull that off and stick the multimeter onto ther.. and hope u get 12.1-12.8v thats a good range i think... if its good.. roll start her and check charge rate..

thanks guys, ill see what i can do.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R32 gtr transmission strength, billet plate

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Just put skinny tyres on it.
    • cosline
      R32 gtr transmission strength, billet plate

      By cosline · Posted

      Yes, I know🙄 but the sequential is not in my budget... don't want to reduce power neither, so looks like I'm stuck in the rabbit hole🤣
    • Piggaz
      R32 gtr transmission strength, billet plate

      By Piggaz · Posted

      You’ll be very upset when you bust that too not to mention the gearing totally sucks. Don’t do it.
    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
×
×
  • Create New...