Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys was wondering if u can help me with this problem

i have a 5 puck ceramic excedy brass button clutch.. its only 8 months old.. and now its slipping any idea... my car is only making 176 rwkws and the clutch is rated at 300 RWKWs.. the clutch relaese point is now about 3 mm from the top so i barely have to push the clutch in to dis-engage the clutch from the flywheel.. and when u engage the clutch again.. its like its not fully engaged back onto the flywheel..

is there a manual way to reset the clutch relase point ect.. like someone once told me you can adjust the throw out point from the clutch pedal up top..

any ideas... i cant book the car back in for 4 weeks at the place i got it.. and im just getting the shits.. spent almost 1k on a clutch and its rooted already.. i hardly even slip the clutch just take off liek your supposed to with a brass button..

Any help would be muchly appreciated

you can adjust the clutch master feel at the top of the pedal there is a pin going thru the clutch pedal held in place with a split pin. remove the pin, and you can screw the saddle in tighter or looser depending on how u want the pedal...

be warned the pin is an absolute bastard to get back in :)

you dont need to remoove the pin to adjust it, just loosen the locking nut on the fork that goes over the pedal. p.s i wouldnt be playing with that stuff unless you know what your adjusting, it adjusts the freeplay. yours could be incorrect causing the pedal to be always engaugeing the clutch and therefore wore your clutch out prematurely.

  • 2 weeks later...

hey

i have one of these exact same clutches and its less then 1500 kms old... took it out to mallala for drift prac and before i even got out to the track on my way to a mates workshop it just all of a sudden started to slip while IN gear... in 4th at 3000 rpm about 80kph i would give it some throttle and it would just start slipping!!

gave it a bleed, didnt do much at all.. went out to the track and needless to say it was pretty useless.. im pretty disappointed with the clutch, considering i only JUST bought it.

not even making much power either... about 170 rwkw

nar. brassies ware out pretty quick. especally iff slipped

yerp i had one in when i bought my car from the previous owner fitting it.

I had to remove the driveline to fit my 3lt and while the clutch was out i replaced it.

Simple fact is buttons suck for a daily driver, or carpark shopping. Anyone who uses em on the street will make em slip soon. This is like the 10th person ive heard recently complain.

I also noticed they burn out the std flywheel as well which is a bitch, but lucky i bought a os twin to replace it with (flywheel incl.) The pedal feel is back close to stock, it doesnt slip or shudder from carparks, and will handle anything i throw at it.

ive had 5-6 puck clutches for years and never really have had much drama;s with them til this last one... its just useless and it has had bugger all driving done on it. it started slipping from the word go really.

totally agree that brass clutches are not for the street. They not only wear out the disc but due the the metal in it, the flywheel and also the pressure plate.

If it started to slip so soon it could be a hydraulic problem pedal may be still engaging even though its all the way out.

On the track though they can hold a lot more than an organic disc

exedy copy clutch was what I heard it was Simon that true?

didnt even know you could get copy clutches

its not a copy, but rather an exedy disk and seco pressure plate....seco being owned by exedy, so technically its all the same.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Everyone, I did 4.11 gears in my 34 GTR and only thing that remains is to fix the speedo reading (it reads about 15% higher) using the R33 GTR speedo sensor. Few questions:   1. Does the R33 speedo sensor fit right in to the 6sp getrag? I read it does but wanted to confirm because the speedo sensors between 33 and 34 look quite different   2. The connector on the 33 speedo sensor will not plug into the connector on the getrag. Do I just need to wire the pins together manually?  See pic: https://imgur.com/a/NTDzFe8
    • Does anyone know how I could find the part number for bolts used with  r34 with rb25detneo engine lower timing belt cover?   my timing cover was rubbed and i fixed it but upon putting the harmonic balancer i see the timing cover is almost rubbing and that is due to previous owners using general bolts and washer rather than the bolts per link below which sits inside the washer and pull the cover in   not sure if those bolts will fit rb25   https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/326510870741?gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAB_7XZxjuciMybdVOTShCs9857686&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338723872&toolid=20006&customid=7jIl12glAAAAVfHSSnyxAmSsdRxnAAAAAA
    • If the slightly higher internal EGR caused by a high flow cat causes detonation your tuner was way, way, way too aggressive to begin with. Timing scatter is a problem unless you go to a crank trigger, winter vs summer blend has different octane, list goes on.
    • The H1 Alpha with the 6.6 Duramax is basically the actual powerplant it needs to be remotely ok to drive on public roads. It's just not worth the cost to buy a real one. Humvees look cool but man the reality of them is depressing. Grunts aren't kind to them but they aren't that reliable either, they have horrible payload despite absolutely massive size, zero actual armor against mines/small arms, absolutely anemic naturally aspirated diesels, list goes on. 
×
×
  • Create New...