Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well i went for bit of as cruise today out of town to Rotorua, and on the way home i had one of my rear tyres blow out! Pretty scary as i was on the open road doing 100km/h. When i eventually got the car in a straight line to stop i inspected the tyre, i saw the WHOLE inside wall had blown out from the rest of the tyre!!!

The tyres were bout 6months old and had a fair amount of tread, anyone got any ideas as to what would cause this? The tyres are Nankang NS2 225/35/19.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172083-tyre-blowout/
Share on other sites

what size wheels

if its a 9...id say that you had an improper alignment, which irregularly wore one strip of the tire, where it blew out and separated

ive seen it happen before

if its like a 7 wide, id say bad luck

but if you hvae a streatched tire and improper alignment, it is unsafe

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172083-tyre-blowout/#findComment-3169694
Share on other sites

Has the tyre been slightly under inflated recently. Being just a couple of PSI down on a low profile tyre will chop out the internal side walls very quickly due to the constant flexing and squashing.

Check the inside of the other sidewall when you get it off to see if it has any rubber flaking off it

225/35/19 i would keep that size tyre at least 35 psi

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172083-tyre-blowout/#findComment-3170218
Share on other sites

Has the tyre been slightly under inflated recently. Being just a couple of PSI down on a low profile tyre will chop out the internal side walls very quickly due to the constant flexing and squashing.

Check the inside of the other sidewall when you get it off to see if it has any rubber flaking off it

225/35/19 i would keep that size tyre at least 35 psi

id reccomend 38-40 personally becuase it has a stretch on it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172083-tyre-blowout/#findComment-3170398
Share on other sites

Join the club mate, I had the exact same thing happen to me, except I had a trailer full of furniture on the back. It's because of the camber on the rear wheels, it wears the tyres unevenly. If you've lowered it get adjustable camber arms, otherwise a camber kit can fix it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172083-tyre-blowout/#findComment-3170653
Share on other sites

and dont forget, when you lower it, it also messes up the toe

horribly

camber wont wear tires

i ran my car (the 180) with almost 4 * of negative camber for 6 or 7 months with no irregular tire wear

the Toe is drastically effected by the height of the car on the nissans rear setup.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172083-tyre-blowout/#findComment-3170733
Share on other sites

Both Humble & l have blown rear tyres exactly the same way ... and the same shitty tyre brand too.

According to my guy at tyre centre its more to do with the tyre's than camber or toe. They're just cheap tyre's that are known to blow quickly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172083-tyre-blowout/#findComment-3171546
Share on other sites

and dont forget, when you lower it, it also messes up the toe

horribly

camber wont wear tires

i ran my car (the 180) with almost 4 * of negative camber for 6 or 7 months with no irregular tire wear

the Toe is drastically effected by the height of the car on the nissans rear setup.

i know guys that have ran -5 to -8* of camber on their rear wheels on large VIP sedans...and no irregular tire wear after a year.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172083-tyre-blowout/#findComment-3172641
Share on other sites

and dont forget, when you lower it, it also messes up the toe

the Toe is drastically effected by the height of the car on the nissans rear setup.

Without getting into the argument of camber and tyre wear, the above qoute is correct. I went from -2deg camber to +2deg when I installed a double camber kit. (theory was that each single kit added only 0.75 deg camber) At the same time the toe went from -1deg to +10deg. The car was downright dangerous to drive, especially when you hooked into a corner and the weight transferred to the outside wheel - which was trying to steer the rear of the car around to the front.

The problem comes from the toe adjuster arm which sits in the lower/middle part of the suspension control arms. The camber kit pushes the top of the tyre out, so the toe adjuster arm effectively pulls the rear of the tyre in.

Still, I cant see how this would cause a tyre to blow. Tyres can wear through to the first belt without too many worries.

Plus, I always run 40psi..just my 2 cents worth

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172083-tyre-blowout/#findComment-3172999
Share on other sites

Camber_angle.jpg

How can you say that WON'T cause irregular wear?

Your tyre spends 80% of it's life running on one corner.

you have to understand

a normal tire lasts what 40,000 Miles? so thats almost 70,000 KM i think (i dont know the conversion off hand)

If after 10,000 miles there is no uneven wear, its normal

it would take 15-17,000 to show heavy uneven wear on a hard compound tire

ill show you, i am ordering my airride friday, and ill keep a report with huge amounts of camber and tires wear

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172083-tyre-blowout/#findComment-3174622
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...