Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest a31rb25
just for shits and giggles if you were wanting to upgrade your brakes but keep the 4 stud standard set up, whats the best way to go about it?

the best way to go about it would be to work some more hours, quit being a tight arse and get a 5 stud set up.....

Just Jap 5 stud hubs $550

RDA Slotted R33 discs = cheap

Bendix Ultimate pads = cheap

R33 Calipers = cheap

i don't know the RRP prices for the stuff with a 'cheap' price tag as i got all four corners for approx $600 for all rotors, calipers & pads, but that was mate's rates

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172238-brake-upgrade/#findComment-3187888
Share on other sites

just for shits and giggles if you were wanting to upgrade your brakes but keep the 4 stud standard set up, whats the best way to go about it?

There's no need to upgrade to 5 stud unless you have difficulty finding the wheels you want in 4 stud.

The R32/S14 calipers bolt straight on, you have 3 options for discs.

1 - redrill the disc (9 holes) so it's 4/5 stud multifit

2 - buy blank faced R32 rotors from RDA, and have them drilled in 4 stud

3 - buy R33 non turbo rotors (same size but factory 4 stud)

If you upgrade to R33 calipers, buy blank faced R33 rotors and have them drilled in 4 stud.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172238-brake-upgrade/#findComment-3189363
Share on other sites

the best way to go about it would be to work some more hours, quit being a tight arse and get a 5 stud set up.....

Just Jap 5 stud hubs $550

i don't know the RRP prices for the stuff with a 'cheap' price tag as i got all four corners for approx $600 for all rotors, calipers & pads, but that was mate's rates

i would NOT buy these just jap hubs! they are pretty shitty quality and made of a "soft" alloy!

do it properly using nissan gear and you cant go wrong

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172238-brake-upgrade/#findComment-3189640
Share on other sites

"the best way to go about it would be to work some more hours, quit being a tight arse and get a 5 stud set up.....

Just Jap 5 stud hubs $550"

ha i work enough hours as it is not being a tight arse, if i wanted 5 stud i would of said so, there was no need to bar up at a simple question. i have the wheels i want in 4 stud..

AND ive seen too many of the JJR 5 stud conversion hubs split in half due to complete dodginess of manufacture...

cheers for the help Daisu.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172238-brake-upgrade/#findComment-3193163
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
    • Ahh. Well the block damage is a problem, you really need to run a tap or thread chaser through it to see if the threads can be saved, but any chips are likely to be bottom end bound which is bad. Earls seem to have what you need if you want to stick with mounting direct on the block: https://rceperformance.com.au/parts/earls-straight-adapter-1-8-npt-male-to-1-8-bspt-female.html, but as I said above I'd recommend remote mounting the sender
    • I'm not quite understanding or I'm missing steps here, (I appreciate people are trying to inform my brain but I am of the dumb, especially today) - All I want to do is mount the male BSPT of the OEM sender into the system somewhere without it snapping the adapter via vibration. The Nissan sender has a male 1/8 BSPT output. The block has a (very destroyed) 1/8 NPT input. I'm not really sure how a lathe assists with that, and also don't know anybody with a lathe, nor specifically what I would want to buy. I'm not really sure how adding additional adapters creates a better, more leak proof resilient seal here.
×
×
  • Create New...