Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think it all really depends on what the purpose you have for the car is. If you are after basic/intermediate levels of tuning for street and the occasional track day, it's tough to go past the PowerFC as it's pretty much plug n play and can do nearly everything most people want.

If you want the best of the best and have the $$$ for it, you're definitely looking at either the Autronic or the Motec ECUs. Both have more parameters and controls than you could ever use but neither are plug n play and take plenty of time to install, tune and properly setup if you want all the goodies.

Have a look at the following threads for more info:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...tronic+power+fc

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...r%20fc&st=0

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...p;#entry1024327

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...mp;#entry931292

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...mp;#entry716558

That should keep you going for a little while otherwise try using the search option in the top right of the menus.

you sound confused

i think you mean to wish to remove the factory airflow meters

600hp is fine with airflow meters

but if you insist motec and apexi powerfc will support no airflow meters

safc II will not support no airflow meters and wont go anywhere near 600HP

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
×
×
  • Create New...